Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
This route is a second pitch above either Benedictine Punk (5.7) or Innocent Victim (10a). A very nice route with quality rock. It starts with a step-over trough and heads up a knobby face (hardest move maybe 10a and mostly 5.9?). At about 2/3rds up the slab turns overhung and the difficulties begin. Challenging reaches between horizontal pockets may remind you of Toxic, although the pockets are much narrower. Just before the anchors, the crux hits with technical moves on small holds.
Location
The second pitch above Benedictine Punk or Innocent Victim. Both these routes have the same start as Manic Nirvana (10c),which is in the 1992 Watt's guide. Benedictine Punk (5.7) is the left side route whereas Innocent Victim (10a) shares the first 3 bolts of Manic Nirvana before veering left and joining with Benedictine Punk. Manic Nirvana is the bolted route that veers out right above an overhang.
I'm curious about this route. While I think it's a very good route and has great finishing moves, it doesn't strike me as a classic because it only has harder moves in the last 1/3rd of the route. The route in some ways reminds me of Massive Luxury Overdose, only cleaner and harder and having pockets instead of edges and arete moves on the last 1/3rd. I seem to be in the minority on this one as besides the 2 4-star votes here, I've heard a few others have thought it 4 star also and Ryan Lawson also gave it 4 stars in his little red book(his route). It has high quality rock but to me that doesn't make up for 10- moves on the first 2/3rds of an 11b route. What to you makes it a 4 star route? For me, if it had 80 feet of those finishing pockets... but then of course it'd be a 5.12...
I did this route for the 1st time weekend before last...I went back and did it again last weekend. I think the fact that is a second pitch above a nice ledge adds to the over-all quality of the climb. I agree that the bottom part of the climb is easy but it is fun. For me a climb doesn't have to be sustained and difficult to be good, it just has to be fun. Would this still be a great climb it it never got above 5.10...??? in my opinion yes.
David, would you say the same thing about Overboard?
Thanks for answering Bryson. A number of other climbers see this as a classic too and I'd like to understand why. I too like the added exposure of Holier Than Thou being a second pitch, but while the starting slab was OK/enjoyable, it didn't stand out to me in any way. I also gave Overboard 3 stars, although I would say I like the start to Overboard over the start to Holier Than Thou. In contrast, I like the ending to HTT better than that of Overboard. Both routes are enjoyable, but I would say that the start of Overboard is more consistent with the difficulties above than is the case with HTT, and also more interesting. For me, Overboard might be considered classic if the rock quality was better(although it probably has cleaned up enough by now to possibly be classic- I haven't been on it for a few years). I'm not sure what a 5.10 version of HTT would consist of, but if it was more sustained or consistent, and also fun, I would like it better and probably consider it classic. I think there are a lot of climbs with great moves in a section of the climb but so-so/somewhat enjoyable moves in the rest, and I see HTT in this category. If HTT is considered a classic, what about all these other routes, that also might have great rock quality like HTT? I have no problem enjoying a 5.9 or easier route if it stays close to that difficulty throughout, or has other amenities(great exposure, position, uniqueness, etc).
Any other thoughts on why this could be considered a classic?
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