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Rocky Butte


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Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Administrator: Peter Franzen
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Thanks a lot to the Mazamas and the AF!


Description 

Rocky Butte is perhaps Portland’s most accessible crag. Rocky Butte is located in Northeast Portland near I-205. Although noisy, somewhat overgrown, and often dirty it is a worthy crag for the happy-hour crowd or a quick weekend afternoon. It tends to be pretty damp during the rainy season but is quite climbable during the rest of the year.


Getting There 

To reach the climbing area take I-84 East from downtown to the 82nd St. exit. Drive North on 82nd to Freemont Street, and take a right. Freemont will turn into 91st Street and will lead to Rocky Butte Rd, which loops around the top of the butte. Park at the gravel pullout across the street from the large church domes. The cliffs lie just beyond the trees to the East. Pick your favorite tree and rappel down.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rocky Butte:
Glenns route   5.7     Sport, 35 feet   Silver Bullet Bluf
Flakey Old Man   5.7     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet, Grade V   Video Bluff
Bill's Buttress Area Notes   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Bill's Buttress
Browse More Classics in Rocky Butte

Featured Route For Rocky Butte
Bil Coe leading "The Plum".  (Photo Ujahn Davisson)

Bill's Buttress Area Notes 5.9  OR : Rocky Butte : Bill's Buttress
I saw the buttress posted here and though I should add this. There are currently 5 distinct and separate moderate trad routes here, and 3 more slight variations of the 5. They all go between 5.8 and 5.10. Only 2 of them have names. On the far left, as you start up the 4th class which goes to the top, is the obvious crack "Corona Glass Houses", 5.10- named by Bryan Schmidt after he and I did the FA. The other routes it's nice to have a 70M rope. I...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR


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By Caleb Phillips
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 20, 2007

The Butte is dirty and the rock isn't perfect, but, if you live in Portland and want to catch a climb after work, or ride your bike to the crag, this is your only choice. If you give it a chance, you can fall in love with the dirty appeal of the 'Butte.

By chris a erickson
From: Portland, OR
Sep 30, 2009

My buddies and I committed to cleaning up the Butte everytime we climbed there. Bring a plastic bag and don't leave til it's full. If everyone does it ... it makes a difference.