BETA PHOTO: Climbers at Hogsback and ascending the pearly gate...
Description
The south side of hood is one of the most popular routes up a glaciated mountain in the world. Also called the "dog route" or "slog route," this route has also claimed the most deaths on the mountain.
The South side requires little technical skills but still has objective dangers!!! Use caution at all times when on the mountain.
The route tradionally begins at Timberline Lodge (~5900ft). If you hire a guide they often take you up to the Silcox hut in snowcat but most local mountaineers consider this cheating. The ski area would like for you to take a trail that heads up the right side of the ski area. Most climbers however head straight up the slopes following the lift line all the way up the "magic mile" to the Silcox Hut.
Continue heading straight up the mountain heading toward the right side of a rock outcrop called crater rock. Here you will find a saddle formed between crater rock and the main summit. This saddle, known as the hogsback, is a good place to rest and evaluate the final push to the summit. Be careful of fumaroles in this area as they can release poisonous gases.
At the north end of the hogsback is the greatest objective danger facing climbers, the bergshrund. This large crevass is always present but sometimes covered with snow. During winter and early spring climbers can simply walk across this chasm on a snowbridge. Extreme caution should be taken however. At some point every year the bridge collapses. Climbers in late spring through fall must circumnavigate the schrund.
Just past the bergshrund is a steeper section through a narrow chute dubbed "the pearly gates" that has been the site of many accidents. Care must be taken on this section as a fall here could result in a long slide straight into the crevasse. This part of the climb can be very beautiful as the rock can be entirely covered in rime ice like a fairytale ice palace. As the chute opens up continue up a short ways to the summit ridge and up right to the true summit.
In recent years the chute to the left of the pearly gates has become another reasonable option to ascend when past the bergshrund.
Descend the route. Be careful as the route conditions can change dramatically in a short period of time.
Protection
In good conditions the route can be done with nothing but a good pair of boots and a light jacket. Occasionally you'll see someone with a pack filled for a week trip on top though? The gear will actually vary widely considering on the season and conditions.
Common gear includes: Crampons, Ice ax, 30m rope, Pickets, Prussiks or ascenders, harness, & belay device
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Feb 1, 2006
The bottom of the Hog's Back is a good place to rope up. The sulfer fumes can be almost unbearable there if you get a windless day, but it gets better as you approach the summit. If conditions are soft enough the route can be done without crampons, but it's a good idea to use them anyways.
I think the only glaciated peak in the world that gets more traffic that Mt. Hood is Mt. Fuji in Japan. This is a great "first glacier route" despite the crowds.
Over the years, crevasses and glide cracks have started to sneak out of White River and now come within spitting distance of the main drag up around Crater Rock. Be aware of where you are walking in late Spring. A climber was recently pulled out of a whopper just off of triangle moraine. He fell about 40 feet to bedrock.
The biggest threats on this route are weather and falling climbers.
March is the prime time for quality "winter" skiing, lack of crowds, and beautiful scenery.
The "Old Chute" to climber's left of the Pearly Gates, can be a phenomenal ski in the right conditions. Usually the upper 40 feet are featured, bulletproof rime but if you can chatter your way through it, it can be rewarding. Bonus points for catching air off the hogsback.
A note about the descent.... the natural fall line is away from Timberline Lodge and directly towards Mississippi Head. If you are descending in white out or limited visibility conditions, make sure that you are using map and compass to site on Timberline Lodge. Know what the declination is and stick to it. Also , I have use the top of the Palmer Chairlift as a point of reference, then following the chairlift to the lodge.
Mt. Hood
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