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Broughton Bluff
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loose block overhang right variation 
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loose block overhang right variation 

5.9 PG13

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Season: Year round
Views: 78 page views

Submitted By: Derrick Peppers on Sep 10, 2009


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Derrick Peppers just past the crux of loose block ...


Description 

you can traverse left on the small shelf to a set of anchors about ten feet away. 5.9 due to the unusual crack technique needed for the short S shaped crack just below the traverse. The first 15 feet are hard to protect and the consequence of a fall could be bad without a pad to protect the rocks below.


Location 

About ten feet right of loose block overhang normal route.


Protection 

Pro to 1.5" chains at top.



Comments on loose block overhang right variation Add Comment
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By hemp22
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.8

This is the right hand variation of the first pitch of loose block overhang.

If you skip the chain anchor and link directly into the overhang on P2, it makes for a good longer pitch, and takes you to the actual Slapfest anchors (which are shared w/ P2 of loose block)

By Derrick Peppers
From: portland, OR
Sep 12, 2009

Thank you hemp22,
We could not find this in the guidebook and winged it on this site. I will move some things around on this post so that it is more accurate.
thanks again.