Climb Gandalfs Grip crack straight up to the line of bolts up the overhung bulge. Jump from hold to hold to the crux of 2 finger crimps and throws. Prepare to project.
Yes, it is still missing a hanger. I was just on this route the other day. The bolt protecting the crux is a rusted-out piece of junk and there is a stud sticking out of the wall about 2-3 feet above this. The hangerless bolt wouldn't be a big deal except that if the rusted bolt blows, the climber will fall back onto the slab of Gandalf's.
Yes, it would suck to fall onto the slab below and there is a missing hanger, but I never noticed the bolt as being in poor condition or so rusty. I think the climb is okay to do. If anyone gets on it just use your best judgement and climb within your own safety realm.
Broughton Bluff
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