This short but "classic" crack has purportedly become harder over the years due to glossing from continuous traffic. Nevertheless it is still a great climb with quality moves. A nice feature of this climb is the overhanging rock above it protects the climb from rain.
The climb begins on a small platform. Ascend a wide crack that quickly narrows to finger size. Top out using the crack or traverse left onto face holds.
Rappel or do 5.1 walk off to the left.
Protection
Single set of cams with doubles in the finger sizes. Nice big (questionable) chains at top.
While there are "nice big chains" at the belay, I remember questioning the integrity of the bolts the last time I was up there. They are not threaded screw-ins (Rawl, Powers, etc.), but big button-heads that are simply hammered in. They may look huge from the outside, but I question how long the bolts actually are. Just because the heads of the bolts are big does not mean they are bomber! Does anyone know the history of these particular anchor bolts?
Otherwise, sweet route, especially if you link it with the short 10c above! Better anchors up there, if I remember right!
P.S. You can put in a piece or two to the left of the bolt anchor if top-roping.
Broughton Bluff
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