This awesome fingercrack will test not only your crack technique but your ability to place gear from strenuous positions. It looks straightforward from the ground, but the difficult fingercrack down low builds a pump quickly. Hanging out to get in a piece at the top with one fingerlock and nothing but smears for your feet leaves most redlined for what looks like a simple exit, but heartbreakingly turns out to be the crux of the route. After you finesse the weird, slopey exit to the crack the climbing becomes much mellower but still fun as you negotiate easy terrain and then one final weird 5.9 chimney/stem move to reach the top.
Location
Locate the obvious clean fingercrack about 20 feet to the right of the popular Hammer and Sickle routes on the far left end of the Hanging Gardens wall.
Protection
Gear to 1" with extra .4-.5" pieces for the splitter fingercrack down low.
Broughton Bluff
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