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Sheer Stress 

5.10a

   

FA: Charlie Priest & Charlie Martin-1975
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 90 feet
Views: 240 page views

Submitted By: Adam Therneau on Jun 3, 2007


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Description 

This is the mega classic thin crack/corner to the right of Classic Crack on the Red Wall.

Pitch 1 - A balancey mix of face and liebacking gets you through the first twenty feet, which is the crux. After this a fun mantle and easier but engaging climbing takes you to the bolted anchor.

Pitch 2 - Traverse right to a large block then follow the hand and finger crack through the overhanging upper wall to the right of Pinhead. The last ten feet are surprisingly steep and give the route an exciting, perfectly protected crux finish.


Location 

At the top of the approach trail go right 50ft to the Red Wall. Obvious thin crack with lots of chalk to the right of classic crack and thai stick.


Protection 

Pro to .75", extra small nuts and microcams for the first pitch. Pitch two takes pro to 2" and one #3 camalot to protect the finish.



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By peachy spohn
From: OR
Aug 19, 2007

one of the best 5.10 climbs at Broughtons.