Start up left of Gandalf's Grip in a corner. Clip a bolt, then travle up a left angle diheadrel (crux). Climb a slab with small nuts to a 8 foot overhanging headwall. Left goes to the Original anchors. Right goes to Gandalf's Grip.
Protection
Pro to 2", 1 #3 Camalot.
Description
Start up left of Gandalf's Grip in a corner. Clip a bolt, then travel up a left angle dihedral (crux). Climb a slab with small nuts to a 8 foot overhanging headwall. Left goes to the Original anchors. Right goes to Gandalf's Grip.
This is one of the best 5.9 trad pitches I've done anywhere. It seemed a bit dirty and untraveled when I got on it. The right finish through the roof is the crux of the route and definitely the way to go in my opinion.
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