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Broughton Bluff
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Gandalf's Grip 

5.9

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II
Season: When Dry
Views: 863 page views

Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 23, 2006


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Kathryn on pitch 1 just before sunset.


Description 

This stunning line is one of the longest and best climbs at Broughton. The climb is on the north face, facing the Columbia river and can be seen from highway 84.

It is usually done in 3 pitches but can be done as one pitch with a 60m rope if long runners are used.

Pitch 1: 5.9 The climb starts up a steep crack and then angles left onto the face through a few bolts. Continue up through a small roof (crux) and onto an angled ledge and a 3 bolt belay.

Pitch 2: 5.8 Continue up a right facing dihedral until it angles to the right and forms a small stance.

Pitch 3: 5.7 The last pitch goes up a wide and sometimes dirty chimney. Belay off a tree at the top.

Walk off to the left (east) or rap
-1 rap with 2 60m ropes or. . .
-2 raps down route


Protection 

A regular rack of doubles to #3 camalot with one optional larger piece for the last pitch is recommended as well as a few quickdraws and double length slings



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By rpc
Jan 26, 2006

Gandalf's is rated 5.9+ by Portland Area Rock Climbs (?) book. Even then, that's a BIG PLUS in that rating IMHO.

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 1, 2006
rating: 5.9+

Great route. Been a while since I have done it though (around 2003 when I lived in rainy Portland area). Would be nice to have some photos!

By Karsten
From: Sparks, NV
Apr 14, 2006

I agree on the photos stout. The one of Katherine at the crux is nice but I'll try to get a pic of the whole route in this summer when I in the neighborhood.