This stunning line is one of the longest and best climbs at Broughton. The climb is on the north face, facing the Columbia river and can be seen from highway 84.
It is usually done in 3 pitches but can be done as one pitch with a 60m rope if long runners are used.
Pitch 1: 5.9 The climb starts up a steep crack and then angles left onto the face through a few bolts. Continue up through a small roof (crux) and onto an angled ledge and a 3 bolt belay.
Pitch 2: 5.8 Continue up a right facing dihedral until it angles to the right and forms a small stance.
Pitch 3: 5.7 The last pitch goes up a wide and sometimes dirty chimney. Belay off a tree at the top.
Walk off to the left (east) or rap -1 rap with 2 60m ropes or. . . -2 raps down route
Protection
A regular rack of doubles to #3 camalot with one optional larger piece for the last pitch is recommended as well as a few quickdraws and double length slings
I agree on the photos stout. The one of Katherine at the crux is nice but I'll try to get a pic of the whole route in this summer when I in the neighborhood.
By matt bruton From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Sep 11, 2008
I'll load some pics, if you tell me you used the big tree 15 ft back from the face, not the little (albeit tempting) tree/shrub at to top of the route.
This has gotta be the hardest 5.9+ routes I've done, at least the first pitch. The finger crack, although solid is kind of intimidating, followed by what I would call a couple of .10 moves when you get to the bolts. Go ahead and flame all you want, I know a lot of other locals who agree.
What a great 1st pitch! Some fun, weird, more-solid-than-you-think rock leads to a very nice finger crack. I'd call this section 5.9-ish. The face moves above and to the left of the crack seemed a little harder than 5.9. But then again, 5.9+ is a notorious rating just about anywhere.
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