Broughton Bluff

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Lat, Long:	45.5414, -122.38 Map
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Administrator:	Peter Franzen
Submitted By:	Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006

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View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in ...

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broughton Bluff:

The Sickle 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Edges and Ledges 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Loose Block Overhang 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 60 feet

Gandalf's Grip 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II

Classic Crack 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet

Traffic Court 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 42 feet

Sheer Stress 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet

Red Eye 5.10b/c Sport, 60 feet

Lost Boys 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Peach Cling 5.11b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet

Critical Mass 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Mr. Bentley 5.11+ TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet

Pinhead 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Dracula 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Bloodline 5.12a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Kashmir 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Bad Omen 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Bela Lugosi 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Manson Family Reunion 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Dark Tower 5.13 Sport, 1 pitch, 102 feet

Featured Route For Broughton Bluff

Superstition 5.10c OR : Broughton Bluff

Superstition is a three pitch line that goes to the top of the Bat Wall. Only the first pitch is described here. If you would like to read up on the complete line, pick up a copy of Olson�s Portland Rock Climbs. P1 of Superstition is a popular and fun climb near the center of the Bat Wall (just left of Lost Boys). Ascend a shallow corner passing several minor cruxes. Near the top of the pitch, a leftward trav...[more] Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Broughton Bluff

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Kashmir <br /> <br />Red Wall, Broughton Bluff

Kashmir

Red Wall, Broughton Bluff

Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff

Comments on Broughton Bluff

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By Dannyr
Feb 14, 2006

Many areas in Oregon have poison oak, but Broughton is thick with the stuff. Watch out for it!

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 14, 2006

Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight.

By Bryson Slothower
Aug 19, 2007

any info on the newer bolted line left of Traffic Court? 1st pitch felt 5.9 but the upper pitch looks hard...??

By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Aug 13, 2008

It is called Dark Tower.

By doggy
Sep 9, 2008

WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger.

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 29, 2009

I am in full agreement Matt. I think there's going to be great support in the community for the removal of the new bolts.

By peachy spohn
From: OR
Aug 26, 2010

I am trying to get the information about a route that begins up Dracula and then veers left after the bolt that is past the rail. I cleaned off the face (and the small roof it pulls over) and did the entire sequence of moves on TR. I would like to add a bolt to it for leading & was also wondering if the route has ever been done? I think Tom Scales?? may have bolted it.

Broughton Bluff

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