View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in ...
Description
Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on Broughton’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.
Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but is difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.
Getting There
Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.
Follow the crack/dihedral up to the ledge on top of the overhanging block. This section can be led using trad. From there, head up to the left and around the corner (crux). Then face climb to the anchors. There are bolts on this second section. Per Tim Olson's book: "Climb up the left corner of (the) detached block, and step onto a large ledge, then embark up left onto the bolted prow and face climb on interesting edges to the belay anchor...[more]
Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight.
WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger.
Okay, so here it goes. Information has leaked about a BOLT LADDER that was put up on the Bat Wall mere feet to the left of Dracula and intersecting Back to the Gym, a bold aid line. For extensive information check out the discussion on
This is pretty serious stuff. It isn't simply the fact of squeeze jobs, but also degrading the rock and environment as well as being completely oblivious to climbing ethics and the local climbing community. I would call myself one of Broughtons biggest fans and this blew my mind when I heard about it. I have had heated debates about bolting in the past and I am all for route safety etc. but when it comes to putting up a nonsensical BOLT LADDER which scars the rock and eliminates any sense of adventure we should be outraged. Those who did it should be informed of the situation. If it hasn't already happened, I will be out soon to take the bolts out.
It's offensive to me that climbers of any style would do something so useless and stupid. I have heard arguments about 'Practicing Aid Climbing," but tell me, what is there exactly to practice on a bolt ladder?
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Jan 29, 2009
I am in full agreement Matt. I think there's going to be great support in the community for the removal of the new bolts.
Broughton Bluff
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
