Mountain Project: Climbing Oregon

Welcome to the Oregon section of MountainProject.com! Home to dozens of crags, the Cascade mountains, and the world-famous Smith Rock, Oregon has enough variety to keep any climber happy.

Climbing gyms in Oregon

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oregon:

The North Face WI3+ Mod. Snow R Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5300 feet, Grade IV Mt. Hood

South Side Route Easy Snow PG13 Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300 feet, Grade III Mt. Hood

Spiderman 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches, 180 feet, Grade II Smith Rock : Spiderman Buttress

Pioneer Route 5.7 C0 Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III Smith Rock : Monkey Face

5 Gallon Buckets 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet Smith Rock : The Dihedrals

Gold Rush 5.10- Trad, 70 feet Trout Creek : The Main Wall

Zebra/ Zion 5.10b Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

Nine Gallon Buckets 5.10c Sport, 2 pitches, 90 feet Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

Pure Palm 5.11a Sport, 80 feet West Side : Wildfire Wall

Monkey Space 5.11b Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet, Grade III Smith Rock : Monkey Face

Vomit Launch 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully

Freebase 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully

Dreamin' 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers

Spank the Monkey 5.12a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Smith Rock : Monkey Face

Heinous Cling 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Smith Rock : The Dihedrals

Chain Reaction 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Smith Rock : The Dihedrals

Rude Boys 5.13c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers

Scarface 5.13d Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers

To Bolt Or Not To Be 5.14a Sport, 1 pitch, 135 feet Smith Rock : The Dihedrals

Comments on Oregon

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By JamieB
Jun 23, 2009

If you're in or around Portland, OR, come on out this Thursday, June 25th. Keith Daellenbach will be discussing the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee's 12-year fight to create a public park at Portland's premier rock climbing area, which is currently closed to access.

Learn how YOU can help save this civic treasure and create a new Clackamas County park.

See the Committee's details here:
www.savemadrone.org/

Keith will do a Q&A after the formal presentation, and FREE door prizes will be raffled too. Come by the Mountain Hardwear store at 722 SW Taylor Street � the talk starts at 6 pm.

More details are here:

www.mountainhardwear.com/Events.aspx

Full disclosure: I work with Mountain Hardwear, but thought you guys would be interested to hear about this event.

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 23, 2009

Thanks for the heads-up on that Jamie!

By alpine glower
From: Soon to be Sweet Home, OR
Aug 29, 2010

To all those who keep posting areas with no drections and saying PM me or what ever nonsense... please stop! This is pointless. If you want someone to visit your area, post directions, thats the point of this site. Half the areas on here seem to be private with directions only given if you jump through some hoops. If thats the case don't post em on here!

By peachy spohn
From: OR
Jul 28, 2011

Don't forget that there is a fee now for Beacon Rock. $10 per day or a $30 for an annual pass that is good for all Wash. State Parks.

By peachy spohn
From: OR
Jul 28, 2011

Don't forget that there is a fee now for Beacon Rock. $10 per day or a $30 for an annual pass that is good for all Wash. State Parks.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 19, 2011

Welcome to Oregon Alpine Glower. The secret area thing cracks me up too, even though the Trout's have been here for a century. I posted a swimming hole for ya. The Elk River is a few miles north of Port Orford. Drive at least 6 miles up the river before the good holes begin appearing. There's climbing along the coast too, but the rock and anchors are usually horrible. Shoot me an email about anywhere and I'll help you spill the beans on the Proj.

By Mr. Holmes
Apr 5, 2012

A quick update regarding rumors surrounding the Rat Cave closure:

I spoke with USFS and yes,it is on their radar... however:

1) No, the crag is not closed to recreational use (this includes climbing); Access is still open.

2) USFS interaction has and will stem priamarily from concerns surrounding new route development (bolting/fixed anchors) and overall human impact.
They will be monitoring this site in the months/seasons to come!

3) The local USFS office is aware of the national MOU with the Access Fund and will connect with me directly regarding any future decisions or concerns though they are currently pleased with the " level of support and collaboration" from the Access Fund, as well as, the local climbing community.

This said, If you climb at the Rat Cave PLEASE KEEP A LOW PROFILE. If you don't.. then I hear "The Gullies" are splendid this time of year!

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