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Patagonia Riverwalker - Felt

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Oregon 


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Welcome 

Welcome to the Oregon section of MountainProject.com! Home to dozens of crags, the Cascade mountains, and the world-famous Smith Rock, Oregon has enough variety to keep any climber happy.


Climbing gyms in Oregon 

Portland metro area:
The Circuit SW
The Circuit NE
Stoneworks
Portland Rock Gym
Club Sport

Eugene:
The Crux

Bend:
Bend Rock Gym

Medford:
Rogue Rock Gym


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oregon:
The North Face   WI3+ Mod. Snow R     Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5300 feet, Grade IV   Mt. Hood
South Side Route   Easy Snow PG13     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300 feet, Grade III   Mt. Hood
Spiderman   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 180 feet, Grade II   Smith Rock : Spiderman Buttress
Pioneer Route   5.7 C0     Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III   Smith Rock : Monkey Face
5 Gallon Buckets   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall
Moonshine Dihedral   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet   Smith Rock : The Dihedrals
Gold Rush   5.10-     Trad, 70 feet   Trout Creek : The Main Wall
Zebra/ Zion   5.10b     Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III   Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall
Nine Gallon Buckets   5.10c     Sport, 2 pitches, 90 feet   Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall
Pure Palm   5.11a     Sport, 80 feet   West Side : Wildfire Wall
Monkey Space   5.11b     Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet, Grade III   Smith Rock : Monkey Face
Vomit Launch   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch   Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully
Freebase   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully
Dreamin'   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers
Spank the Monkey   5.12a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Smith Rock : Monkey Face
Heinous Cling   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Smith Rock : The Dihedrals
Chain Reaction   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Smith Rock : The Dihedrals
Rude Boys   5.13c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers
Scarface   5.13d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers
To Bolt Or Not To Be   5.14a     Sport, 1 pitch, 135 feet   Smith Rock : The Dihedrals
Browse More Classics in Oregon


Featured Route For Oregon
Mike Holmes opts for the dynamic option.

Dame El Oro 5.11  OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall
Simply stunning. Clip the Gold Rush chains, (or, if you're a purist, don't and place gear next to them) shake out, and commit to the gently overhanging, pocketed headwall above. Big, technical moves on mostly big holds will see you to the chains above....[more]   Browse More Classics in OR


Photos of Oregon Slideshow Add Photo
South Sister. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

South Sister.
Photo by Blitzo.


     THE CATHEDRAL at RATTLESNAKE <br />The route is Arabesque(.10a steep!). Draws to the left are on The Groove(.12a small pockets).  Left again is Ikenseaor Crack(.11d). Perhaps meant to be said "I can soar" because the crux dyno out of the crack into a chimney/stem is a bit run. Top roping it, the fall looked uniquely horrifying but clean. The welded tuff is sharper than Smith yet worthy. Almost one hundred sport routes.  Rattlesnake is four air miles west of Trail, Oregon, between Crater Lake and Medford.  The book Rock Climbing Southwest Oregon by Greg Orton has great directions.

BETA PHOTO: THE CATHEDRAL at RATTLESNAKE
The route is Ara...


Crater Lake. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Crater Lake.
Photo by Blitzo.


Crater Lake, Oregon. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Crater Lake, Oregon.
Photo by Blitzo.


somewhere in Oregon CRACKHEADS like this come a dime a dozen....

somewhere in Oregon CRACKHEADS like this come a di...

Callahans

Callahans

Smith Rock

Smith Rock

I can't remember where this was, but it's somewhere inbetween Crater Lake and Portland.  Amazing rock structure.  2001?

I can't remember where this was, but it's somewher...

Crater Lake, I think in 2001.  Amazing place.  Wizard Island in the center.  Everyone should go on the boat tour of this place given the chance.

Crater Lake, I think in 2001. Amazing place. Wiz...

Cascade Ale. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Cascade Ale.
Photo by Blitzo.


Mount Washington, 1976. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Mount Washington, 1976.
Photo by Blitzo.


Elk River, inland a bit from Port Orford.

Elk River, inland a bit from Port Orford.


Comments on Oregon Add Comment
Show which comments
By JamieB
Jun 23, 2009

If you're in or around Portland, OR, come on out this Thursday, June 25th. Keith Daellenbach will be discussing the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee's 12-year fight to create a public park at Portland's premier rock climbing area, which is currently closed to access.

Learn how YOU can help save this civic treasure and create a new Clackamas County park.

See the Committee's details here:
www.savemadrone.org/

Keith will do a Q&A after the formal presentation, and FREE door prizes will be raffled too. Come by the Mountain Hardwear store at 722 SW Taylor Street – the talk starts at 6 pm.

More details are here:

www.mountainhardwear.com/Events.aspx

Full disclosure: I work with Mountain Hardwear, but thought you guys would be interested to hear about this event.

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 23, 2009

Thanks for the heads-up on that Jamie!

By alpine glower
From: Soon to be Sweet Home, OR
Aug 29, 2010

To all those who keep posting areas with no drections and saying PM me or what ever nonsense... please stop! This is pointless. If you want someone to visit your area, post directions, thats the point of this site. Half the areas on here seem to be private with directions only given if you jump through some hoops. If thats the case don't post em on here!

By peachy spohn
From: OR
Jul 28, 2011

Don't forget that there is a fee now for Beacon Rock. $10 per day or a $30 for an annual pass that is good for all Wash. State Parks.

By peachy spohn
From: OR
Jul 28, 2011

Don't forget that there is a fee now for Beacon Rock. $10 per day or a $30 for an annual pass that is good for all Wash. State Parks.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 19, 2011

Welcome to Oregon Alpine Glower. The secret area thing cracks me up too, even though the Trout's have been here for a century. I posted a swimming hole for ya. The Elk River is a few miles north of Port Orford. Drive at least 6 miles up the river before the good holes begin appearing. There's climbing along the coast too, but the rock and anchors are usually horrible. Shoot me an email about anywhere and I'll help you spill the beans on the Proj.

By Mr. Holmes
Apr 5, 2012

A quick update regarding rumors surrounding the Rat Cave closure:

I spoke with USFS and yes,it is on their radar... however:

1) No, the crag is not closed to recreational use (this includes climbing); Access is still open.

2) USFS interaction has and will stem priamarily from concerns surrounding new route development (bolting/fixed anchors) and overall human impact.
They will be monitoring this site in the months/seasons to come!

3) The local USFS office is aware of the national MOU with the Access Fund and will connect with me directly regarding any future decisions or concerns though they are currently pleased with the " level of support and collaboration" from the Access Fund, as well as, the local climbing community.

This said, If you climb at the Rat Cave PLEASE KEEP A LOW PROFILE. If you don't.. then I hear "The Gullies" are splendid this time of year!