Ordeal 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Jim Bridwell, Dave Bircheff, Wayne Steinert 3/65 |
| Season: | All |
| Submitted By: | Marty Brenner on Sep 30, 2006 |
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Jon Hanlon towards the top of Ordeal, 9/11/05.
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Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>
Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting
The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife:
* From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999)
* From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead)
* Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214)
* Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation.
The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect.
Signage has been posted at strategic locations.
Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Ordeal 5.8 Toward the right half of Discovery Wall is a left-facing corner with a nice, roof-like overhang. Start climbing up the crack and toward the roof. There is a bolt, then a fixed pin under the roof. The pin seems good and solid, but you can easily place a back-up piece. Then you get to make improbable face moves out left, before climbing up around the roof's left side. Do not stop at the intermediate belay bolts unless setting up a TR for the bottom half. Continue up the crack up to a ledge with another bolt, which somewhat protects the final headwall. There are anchor bolts in the obvious notch at the top.
This is an excellent route with solid rock. It eats up good pro, plus has several bolts along the way.
Rack: standard Discovery Wall rack - med/large nuts, small/medium cams; a Yates Screamer or two is always a good idea also.
So where are the good handholds? Jon Hanlon toppin...
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 23, 2008
| Certainly one of the more classic Pinnacles routes, but "best single pitch of 5.8 in California" might be a bit of a stretch! |
By Floyd Hayes
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.8
| It felt like 5.9 when I first led it. The second time I moved a few feet farther left from the leaning crack at the crux and it was much easier, like 5.8. Look for the better holds out there on the wall. The last bolt might be out of reach if you're shorter than 4'6". |
By Mathew G
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.9
| For some reason this felt like a 5.8/5.9 route with one 11a move. I surely must have missed something when under that roof. |
By ElGreco
Mar 14, 2012
rating: 5.8
| Classic! Great climbing with good opportunities for pro before the first bolt (nuts, small/medium cams). Fixed pin just below the crux, can be backed up with an orange Metolius cam. A couple of thin and improbable moves left take you out of the cave/roof (crux) to some thoroughly enjoyable jamming (mostly hands, but fists and fingers in places) and face climbing above. Fantastic route. |
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