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Jon Hanlon towards the top of Ordeal, 9/11/05.
Toward the right half of Discovery Wall is a left-facing corner with a nice, roof-like overhang. Start climbing up the crack and toward the roof. There is a bolt, then a fixed pin under the roof. The pin seems good and solid, but you can easily place a back-up piece. Then you get to make improbable face moves out left, before climbing up around the roof's left side. Do not stop at the intermediate belay bolts unless setting up a TR for the bottom half. Continue up the crack up to a ledge with another bolt, which somewhat protects the final headwall. There are anchor bolts in the obvious notch at the top.
This is an excellent route with solid rock. It eats up good pro, plus has several bolts along the way.
Rack: standard Discovery Wall rack - med/large nuts, small/medium cams; a Yates Screamer or two is always a good idea also.
So where are the good handholds? Jon Hanlon toppin...
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 23, 2008
Certainly one of the more classic Pinnacles routes, but "best single pitch of 5.8 in California" might be a bit of a stretch!
|By Floyd Hayes|
Oct 10, 2011
It felt like 5.9 when I first led it. The second time I moved a few feet farther left from the leaning crack at the crux and it was much easier, like 5.8. Look for the better holds out there on the wall. The last bolt might be out of reach if you're shorter than 4'6".
|By Mathew G|
Mar 7, 2012
For some reason this felt like a 5.8/5.9 route with one 11a move. I surely must have missed something when under that roof.
Mar 14, 2012
Classic! Great climbing with good opportunities for pro before the first bolt (nuts, small/medium cams). Fixed pin just below the crux, can be backed up with an orange Metolius cam. A couple of thin and improbable moves left take you out of the cave/roof (crux) to some thoroughly enjoyable jamming (mostly hands, but fists and fingers in places) and face climbing above. Fantastic route.