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Middle Earth
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Orc 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Paul, Galen Kirkwood Pre-1990
Page Views: 747
Submitted By: Kyle Wills on Mar 29, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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41- Orc
39- Cirith Ungol ( fun 5.6)
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Description 

Offwidth crack, with notable hand s-crack that gets you off the ground. Found it to be difficult for the grade, although I am not a proficient Offwidth climber. Crux occurs near the top as crack continue to widen.


Location 

One of the last climbs on top of the Middle Earth region. Look for the wide crack the continues to widen at the top.


Protection 

3 and larger. Be prepared to walk a 6 if you only have one. Bolt Anchors at top



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Oscar on Orc.  All shaken up but you may feel that way after you finish this.
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By Josh Cameron
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Great offwidth training; makes me feel like I'm in Yosemite. I led it with a #5 C4 down low and placed a #2 Metolius in the flake inside the offwidth near the top. I think a #6 would protect it much better than my #5 did, but it seems a 6 would also get in the way.

Towards the top when you think you've lost all hope, look for a good foot on the face out left.

For such a short climb it felt very airy due to its location high on the hillside.