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P1. Start up a corner located below a pair of jagged corners and a patch of white rock. At the top of the lower corner, diagonal up and right, and climb through the broken rock that forms the 'outside' or 'right' upper corner (the inside corner is Cherry's Climb). Continue around the left side of the white rock to a spacious belay ledge on the right. While it looks somewhat broken, the rock throughout the corner appeared solid, and was some of the best climbing on the route. 130'.
P2. From the belay, continue straight up the face to another larger ledge with a rap station. Continue up from this second ledge to a good stance just below the left side of a large roof. 5.5, 60'.
P3. From the belay, traverse left along the base of the roof to a corner. There is a single bolt that protects the traverse. Turn the corner and work up the V slot, passing a second bolt and a fixed Alien at the top. Follow the line with the least amount of lichen up and left to the top. 5.5, 40'.
Descent: We chose to walk off to the left. There is a tree at the top with a couple of slings, and the rap station on P2. Not sure how long the individual rappels are.
Orc Stone climbs the right side of a large recess or amphitheater not far beyond Yum Yum Yab Yum. The left side of the recess is Gold Rush.
Standard rack. Two bolts on P3.
|By John Ely|
Jul 16, 2009
The last pitch is quite nice and makes this climb worth the lower bit.