Orbital Decay  5.12b

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Type:  Sport, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  John Steiger, June 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  John Steiger on Jun 20, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Strone Crag, showing Obrital Decay (yellow), Creak...

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Description 

Orbital Decay climbs a bolt line that catches the right edge of the huge roof band that cuts across the center buttress of Strone Crag. Three bolts protect gently overhanging climbing to a short slab under the roof band. Once below the roof, stretch high, clip another bolt just over the lip (consider using locking biners on the draw), then cut loose onto committing moves to get established on the face above. Three more bolts protect less than vertical but enjoyable face climbing to the anchors. Although the route has some funky rock in the first few body lengths and inconsistent difficulty, spectacular position and exciting climbing make this the best of the 12s on Strone Crag. (Thanks to Brent, Chip, and Derek for the belays on this and the lines to the right).

Location 

Walk east on the ledge system from which Starstruck starts until the ledge begins to peter out in the vicinity of Creaking Plank. Downclimb maybe 15 feet to a lower ledge. Above should be a belay bolt, with three more bolts above that on broken-looking and increasingly overhanging rock leading to the large roof described above.

Protection 

Seven draws, plus draws for the anchors (Metolius rap hangers). An airy 90-foot lower or rap will get you back to the lower ledge mentioned under location.