Oranguterror 

Absolutely covered in lichen. Will become more like 10d with more ascents.

Real FA: Roy Suggett, Rich Magner, Pat Curry

Super classic. Loved it!

Out of curiosity, was this bolted on lead? The pic seems to indicate otherwise, just checking. Is the rock too chossy down low to avoid the R rating? Or is it artificially runout?

Thanks Boissal for checking us out! The crack to the left was put up on lead. As we rapped down the face we noticed how good the rock was and gave it a go. The first bolt was easy but the second was really hard and nobody had at the time a brush to deal with the lichen...so we went back up the crack and plotted the moves and where the best bolt placements might be. The second clip is the crux. We debated long and hard but decided in the late hours of the day to place the bolt higher than we liked but on a more comforatable stance. And so it goes with the Jungle...all cracks are from the ground up, the faces are mostly combo.s of both practices.

The reason this climb is R rated is that I almost cracked my head open at the second bolt. It happened during my first lead on this route, I was super gripped, and not thinking clearly. I was fully extended, trying to clip for like 30 seconds, then I missed it, and took a wild windmill swing that not only brought me very close to the ground, but brought my head very close to an edge. This mistake can be avoided by almost any clear minded individual. Just pull on gear, and try again. Don't be a purist and get yourself killed. I actually wouldn't give this climb an R rating, even though I almost smashed my head up on it.

This one is a little spicy to reach the first bolt. PG-13 perhaps? Yes, Pat did almost crack his head, but was super out of position. He's hard-headed though. The rock would've been dust.


The decision to top - rope, work potential routes, find placements, then drill- came out of necessity. The dichotomous nature of this formation ranges from stellar to nasty and rotten. A TR allowed us to test the rock, check for 'booby traps', and avoid face-fulls of gravity powered rhyolite goulash.

Enjoy.

Thanks Rich, I appreciate the support. Anyhow, I tried to post a video of some of the"choss" that consisted of a 300 lb. rock being pealed off the top of one of the better routes. So, I will say that I support the top down bolting methods.

Awesome face line, sustained, technical, big moves, clean rock...

I can now comment on my comment: not R, although the first 2 clips are definitely not something you'd want to fumble. I started on the arete to the right and didn't breathe much until I latched the big shelf up and right of the 2nd bolt. Think bouldery climbing on small crimps/sidepulls with lots of body tension and a mediocre clipping hold. Did I mention it is an AWESOME LINE???
The top keeps coming at you and even though the holds get better the occasional slopper will keep you on your toes.

EDIT: one vote for extending this beast to the TOP OF THE TOWER!

On it...when it thaws out!