This sport route is even better as the thin edges have lost the lichen. The second clip is important! This is the first pitch crux and if you peel after pulling rope prior to the clip...there is a possibility of hitting something hard on the fall. The stance is what we all thought was the best option, but still...be careful! As of 6/15/14 there is now a second pitch. The 11d moves are on this pitch and come at the second to last bolt. The first pitch is still an 11a. You can do the entire thing as one pitch if you have forearms like Popeye OR go to the shared anchor with "Coco's Lichen It" as before. So...
Pitch I Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings. This anchor is shared with the crack just to the left. Climb up the arete then left on to the face. The line is mostly straight up until the last bolt when it turns left. There is a questionable hold here that makes the move left easy. It is now "Xed".
Pitch II Traverse right from the last bolt of pitch I and head up and toward the wall (which looks doable...check it out on the top rope) and then straight up, clipping the last of six bolts before reaching the two bolt anchor. A 60 meter rope will suffice.
This face is just right of a right facing dihedral with the crack called "Coco's Lichen It." This is the last of the routes in the "Congo Corner."
Thanks Boissal for checking us out! The crack to the left was put up on lead. As we rapped down the face we noticed how good the rock was and gave it a go. The first bolt was easy but the second was really hard and nobody had at the time a brush to deal with the lichen...so we went back up the crack and plotted the moves and where the best bolt placements might be. The second clip is the crux. We debated long and hard but decided in the late hours of the day to place the bolt higher than we liked but on a more comforatable stance. And so it goes with the Jungle...all cracks are from the ground up, the faces are mostly combo.s of both practices.
The reason this climb is R rated is that I almost cracked my head open at the second bolt. It happened during my first lead on this route, I was super gripped, and not thinking clearly. I was fully extended, trying to clip for like 30 seconds, then I missed it, and took a wild windmill swing that not only brought me very close to the ground, but brought my head very close to an edge. This mistake can be avoided by almost any clear minded individual. Just pull on gear, and try again. Don't be a purist and get yourself killed. I actually wouldn't give this climb an R rating, even though I almost smashed my head up on it.
This one is a little spicy to reach the first bolt. PG-13 perhaps? Yes, Pat did almost crack his head, but was super out of position. He's hard-headed though. The rock would've been dust.
The decision to top - rope, work potential routes, find placements, then drill- came out of necessity. The dichotomous nature of this formation ranges from stellar to nasty and rotten. A TR allowed us to test the rock, check for 'booby traps', and avoid face-fulls of gravity powered rhyolite goulash.
Thanks Rich, I appreciate the support. Anyhow, I tried to post a video of some of the"choss" that consisted of a 300 lb. rock being pealed off the top of one of the better routes. So, I will say that I support the top down bolting methods.
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Sep 6, 2011 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a PG13
Awesome face line, sustained, technical, big moves, clean rock...
I can now comment on my comment: not R, although the first 2 clips are definitely not something you'd want to fumble. I started on the arete to the right and didn't breathe much until I latched the big shelf up and right of the 2nd bolt. Think bouldery climbing on small crimps/sidepulls with lots of body tension and a mediocre clipping hold. Did I mention it is an AWESOME LINE??? The top keeps coming at you and even though the holds get better the occasional slopper will keep you on your toes.
EDIT: one vote for extending this beast to the TOP OF THE TOWER!
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Jul 28, 2014 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a PG13
Use long runners on the last 2 bolts of the 1st pitch (6 and 7 I believe) and go for the linkup! The traverse is a bit intimidating but the bolting is super safe. Expect to clip at your waist as the best holds are pretty high up. Do your best to catch a rest after the rightward shuffle as the crux requires some hard pulling and very sequential climbing not suitable for pumped forearms (read: this still doesn't have a clean FA).
We cleaned a lot of blocks of the right arete and sent down a massive column (I could barely slide the smaller piece on the ground). It doesn't change the crux one bit but makes the finish less terrifying since you can actually touch the arete without carpet bombing the belayer. The two Xed blocks below the crux are still there and felt surprisingly solid. There is also a good candidate for removal on P1, it's Xed and has a sad face on its side...