Orangina  5.11c PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Chris Van Leuven and Mike Schneiter New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Michael Schneiter on Oct 2, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Orangina climbs the center of the face beneath the...

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Description 

This quality face climb is a gem in a sea of choss on the Mudwall. Engaging face climbing down low is protected by cams in horizontal seams. Above, the angle steepens where tenuous, technical climbing is protected by 4 bolts, including the technical crux. The upper face is featured with small, sharp holds cemented with calcite.

The 5.11c portion is reasonably protected with bolts. The PG-13 section comes in the lower section and is probably no harder than 5.10+/5.11-.

Location 

Where the trail meets the wall is an enormous roof capping a section of face that is smooth and orange. Bear Paw, an old Layton Kor-Larry Dalke route climbs the left side of this roof. Orangina climbs the orange face underneath the roof.

Protection 

Cams from micro to #2 Camalot with extras in the micro to finger-size. 4 bolts protect the upper face. Two bolt anchor.