Climb the classic, dog leg crack on the left.
Pro to 2".
|By Josh Cameron|
Jun 27, 2011
THE climb to do at The Stumps. Fun, fun, fun.
|By Kellen Holt|
Apr 2, 2012
Climbed this today. The climb stayed in the shade the entire time we were at the stumps, although later in the summer season I could see it getting some sun. Rock was cooooold (there were icicles on an adjacent route), and I lost feeling in my hands pretty quick, but the route was still excellent. The first step left into the horizontal part of the crack is a classic move, coming out from the pod and stepping out onto the vertical face with a straight drop below you. Thankfully the pocketed nature of the volcanic tuft provides lots of key footholds and the handjams are perfect (when I could actually feel them!).
One note - A #3 camalot or similar is helpful in a few places on this climb. Also wider gear makes building an anchor at the top much easier, although I was able to get by with a medium/large nut, a #2 camalot, and an alien in a pod.