From the hillside just right of the True Skyline Arete, climb up easy blocks to a ledge right of the arete. Clip the bolt in the middle of the orange patina and head up to the right. Thin holds and smears get you to the second bolt which is on the second orange face. The following sequence is the crux. Once you can reach the bomber hold up high, you're through it - pull up and over onto the top of the pinnacle, also known as Orange Ledge, to a two bolt anchor. This route was originally rated 5.10a in the old Gerberding MG guide as well as in Kennedy and Hubbard's San Diego County Climbing Guide. Messier rated Orange walk a 5.10b in his online guide. I rate it here as 5.10c because I believe the micro-holds of the crux have become quite polished over the years. What once was a very nice, balancy move has become something far more desperate. Still a very fun climb, but a little run-out, although the bolts are where you need them. Walk off to the right to descend, past the tree and onto the hillside, taking the last chute down and back to the right.
Right of Lunch Rock, on the far side of the true Skyline Arete
2 bolts - two-bolt anchor, no rings or chains
From: the bedroom
Jan 30, 2011
"Desperate" is a good descriptor for the crux move...an otherwise enjoyable little romp.
|By Jason Kim|
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 31, 2013
Went pretty easy on TR the first time I climbed this. Not so much on lead, though. Holds are there, but finding the right sequence can be tricky. Definitely worth doing.