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Unsorted Routes:

Orange Sunshine 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Season: Any
Page Views: 3,164
Submitted By: mschlocker on Aug 13, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley on the second crux move of Orange S...
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Description 

Face climb starts on classic Mission Gorge polished grey slickrock and finishes on classic Mission Gorge sticky orange rock requiring delicate moves. Apparently going left at the third bolt is slightly easier. I would recommend straight up, bolt to bolt.

I have heard that there was a variant of LSD enjoyed by our troops in Vietnam back in that time known as Orange Sunshine. I have no idea if those who named this climb were aware of that, but it is an interesting fact.


Location 

Middle Earth area. Head up the trail to the Middle Earth sport climbing area. Up the steps, and veer right, in a canyon by The Overhangs. You will see an obvious orange wall on the left side with some bolts.


Protection 

4 shiny bolts with rap anchor.



Photos of Orange Sunshine Slideshow Add Photo
Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Orange Sunshine.
Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Or...
Finishing the first, harder, crux move on Orange Sunshine. The first two moves on this have small hands and slick feet (the gray, rather than the orange or white granite) and require either an extremely trusting smear for the left foot, or a high foot on a tiny hold for your right foot, and a slight lieback on the crack feature.
BETA PHOTO: Finishing the first, harder, crux move on Orange S...
Orange Sunshine (or in this case, Orange Shadowline).  Climb basically follows the middle of this photo.  Look for bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Orange Sunshine (or in this case, Orange Shadowlin...
Making the high step and reach for the traverse move, second crux, on Orange Sunshine.
BETA PHOTO: Making the high step and reach for the traverse mo...
Rebecca Manley moving off the high right foot--the crux move--on Orange Sunshine.
BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley moving off the high right foot--the...
Pulling through the final small face move (5.9ish) to a rail of perfect jugs that signal the end of the business, and the beginning of the cruise right (5.5ish).
BETA PHOTO: Pulling through the final small face move (5.9ish)...
Jeremy setting up TR
Jeremy setting up TR
Comments on Orange Sunshine Add Comment
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008

This is the best face climb in MG, IMHO. For one thing, it isn't mostly over slick grey rock. The orange patina provides a nice bite for the shoes. Also, it has a rather nice sequence on tiny holds, requiring balance and some smearing. The left variation is at least a solid .10b.

Orange Sunshine, Yellow Sunshine, Blue Barrel and their progenitor, Purple Microdot, were all forms of LSD in pill form, available into the early '80s, not that I would know anything about that.

By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 9, 2008

Route looks great, even if NOT on some Purple Thunder 650mcg acid. I'd say the more Mellow Yellow 250 , Orange Sunshine 350's would be a better choice if you don't want to get your freak on mid crux. But then again, if your brain thinks you are a fly on the wall, maybe you can climb like one too. Peace out.

By ChadC
From: San Diego CA
Feb 17, 2013

We set up TR on this to give it a try. Thought it was a 10c from the Topo we had. Tough climb but is one of the only walls in mission gorge that you can actually smear on.

To the right of it there is a nice little 5.5 or so flake you can free solo up to set a TR. I have heard there is a way to scrabble up the back side to the bolt anchors also.

By Chris Orozco
From: Lone Pine, CA
Mar 29, 2013

Isn't this Galadriel from the Hubbard / Kennedy SD Guidebook? 10c? I led it today with a buddy, didn't feel like 11a...

By Ryan Heimpel
Jun 30, 2013

Top roped this today after scramling up the crack to the right. I wanted to make sure I could even do it after being totally humbled on Black Rider. I noticed the 3rd hanger was spinning on a bolt that felt tight by hand. Nixed the lead cause the 3rd bolt protects what felt like the crux to me.

I'm nowhere near expert, but if Black Rider is a legit 11B, this thing should be rated way lower than 11A.