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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterthought TR 
Anduril S,TR 
Art Imitates Life S 
Art of the Pissant S 
Big Kahuna S 
Black Rider S,TR 
Caradhras T 
Cirith Ungol T 
Dimrill Stair T 
Dwarrowdelf T 
Easy Rider S,TR 
Fangorn Crack T,TR 
Fool's Gold S 
Gandalf T 
Glamdring S 
Isengard S 
Karmic Relief S 
Khazaddum S 
Little Bruiser T 
Lord of the Rings S 
Marranon T,TR 
Merryanne TR 
Middle Finger TR 
Nameless Left of Dimrill Stair T,S 
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 
Orange Sunshine S 
Orc T 
Orthanc S 
Out on a Whim T 
Radagast T 
Risky Business T,S 
Rock Wrestling T 
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 
Room With A View T 
Sam I Am S 
Shadowfax T 
Shelob's Lair T 
Slice & Dice T 
Smeagol's Surprise T 
Strider TR 
Strider Face TR 
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Orange Sunshine 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Let Me Know
Season: Any
Page Views: 3,497
Submitted By: mschlocker on Aug 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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BETA PHOTO: Finishing the first, harder, crux move on Orange S...

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Face climb starts on classic Mission Gorge polished grey slickrock and finishes on classic Mission Gorge sticky orange rock requiring delicate moves. Apparently going left at the third bolt is slightly easier. I would recommend straight up, bolt to bolt.

I have heard that there was a variant of LSD enjoyed by our troops in Vietnam back in that time known as Orange Sunshine. I have no idea if those who named this climb were aware of that, but it is an interesting fact.


Middle Earth area. Head up the trail to the Middle Earth sport climbing area. Up the steps, and veer right, in a canyon by The Overhangs. You will see an obvious orange wall on the left side with some bolts.


4 shiny bolts with rap anchor.

Photos of Orange Sunshine Slideshow Add Photo
Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Or...
Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Or...
Rebecca Manley on the second crux move of Orange S...
BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley on the second crux move of Orange S...
Orange Sunshine (or in this case, Orange Shadowlin...
BETA PHOTO: Orange Sunshine (or in this case, Orange Shadowlin...
Making the high step and reach for the traverse mo...
BETA PHOTO: Making the high step and reach for the traverse mo...
Rebecca Manley moving off the high right foot--the...
BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley moving off the high right foot--the...
Pulling through the final small face move (5.9ish)...
BETA PHOTO: Pulling through the final small face move (5.9ish)...
Jeremy setting up TR
Jeremy setting up TR

Comments on Orange Sunshine Add Comment
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008

This is the best face climb in MG, IMHO. For one thing, it isn't mostly over slick grey rock. The orange patina provides a nice bite for the shoes. Also, it has a rather nice sequence on tiny holds, requiring balance and some smearing. The left variation is at least a solid .10b.

Orange Sunshine, Yellow Sunshine, Blue Barrel and their progenitor, Purple Microdot, were all forms of LSD in pill form, available into the early '80s, not that I would know anything about that.
By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 9, 2008

Route looks great, even if NOT on some Purple Thunder 650mcg acid. I'd say the more Mellow Yellow 250 , Orange Sunshine 350's would be a better choice if you don't want to get your freak on mid crux. But then again, if your brain thinks you are a fly on the wall, maybe you can climb like one too. Peace out.
By ChadC
From: San Diego CA
Feb 17, 2013

We set up TR on this to give it a try. Thought it was a 10c from the Topo we had. Tough climb but is one of the only walls in mission gorge that you can actually smear on.

To the right of it there is a nice little 5.5 or so flake you can free solo up to set a TR. I have heard there is a way to scrabble up the back side to the bolt anchors also.
By Chris Orozco
From: Lone Pine, CA
Mar 29, 2013

Isn't this Galadriel from the Hubbard / Kennedy SD Guidebook? 10c? I led it today with a buddy, didn't feel like 11a...
By Coon
Jun 30, 2013

Top roped this today after scramling up the crack to the right. I wanted to make sure I could even do it after being totally humbled on Black Rider. I noticed the 3rd hanger was spinning on a bolt that felt tight by hand. Nixed the lead cause the 3rd bolt protects what felt like the crux to me.

I'm nowhere near expert, but if Black Rider is a legit 11B, this thing should be rated way lower than 11A.
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