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Face climb starts on classic Mission Gorge polished grey slickrock and finishes on classic Mission Gorge sticky orange rock requiring delicate moves. Apparently going left at the third bolt is slightly easier. I would recommend straight up, bolt to bolt.
I have heard that there was a variant of LSD enjoyed by our troops in Vietnam back in that time known as Orange Sunshine. I have no idea if those who named this climb were aware of that, but it is an interesting fact.
Middle Earth area. Head up the trail to the Middle Earth sport climbing area. Up the steps, and veer right, in a canyon by The Overhangs. You will see an obvious orange wall on the left side with some bolts.
4 shiny bolts with rap anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Finishing the first, harder, crux move on Orange S...
BETA PHOTO: Making the high step and reach for the traverse mo...
BETA PHOTO: Pulling through the final small face move (5.9ish)...
Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Or...
BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley moving off the high right foot--the...
BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley on the second crux move of Orange S...
Jeremy setting up TR
|Comments on Orange Sunshine
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008
This is the best face climb in MG, IMHO. For one thing, it isn't mostly over slick grey rock. The orange patina provides a nice bite for the shoes. Also, it has a rather nice sequence on tiny holds, requiring balance and some smearing. The left variation is at least a solid .10b.
Orange Sunshine, Yellow Sunshine, Blue Barrel and their progenitor, Purple Microdot, were all forms of LSD in pill form, available into the early '80s, not that I would know anything about that.
|By Woodchuck ATC|
Nov 9, 2008
Route looks great, even if NOT on some Purple Thunder 650mcg acid. I'd say the more Mellow Yellow 250 , Orange Sunshine 350's would be a better choice if you don't want to get your freak on mid crux. But then again, if your brain thinks you are a fly on the wall, maybe you can climb like one too. Peace out.
Feb 17, 2013
We set up TR on this to give it a try. Thought it was a 10c from the Topo we had. Tough climb but is one of the only walls in mission gorge that you can actually smear on.
To the right of it there is a nice little 5.5 or so flake you can free solo up to set a TR. I have heard there is a way to scrabble up the back side to the bolt anchors also.
|By Chris Orozco|
From: Lone Pine, CA
Mar 29, 2013
Isn't this Galadriel from the Hubbard / Kennedy SD Guidebook? 10c? I led it today with a buddy, didn't feel like 11a...
|By Ryan Heimpel|
Jun 30, 2013
Top roped this today after scramling up the crack to the right. I wanted to make sure I could even do it after being totally humbled on Black Rider. I noticed the 3rd hanger was spinning on a bolt that felt tight by hand. Nixed the lead cause the 3rd bolt protects what felt like the crux to me.
I'm nowhere near expert, but if Black Rider is a legit 11B, this thing should be rated way lower than 11A.