Orange Sunshine 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Let Me Know |
| Season: | Any |
| Submitted By: | mschlocker on Aug 13, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Orange Sunshine (or in this case, Orange Shadowlin...
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Face climb starts on classic Mission Gorge polished grey slickrock and finishes on classic Mission Gorge sticky orange rock requiring delicate moves. Apparently going left at the third bolt is slightly easier. I would recommend straight up, bolt to bolt.
I have heard that there was a variant of LSD enjoyed by our troops in Vietnam back in that time known as Orange Sunshine. I have no idea if those who named this climb were aware of that, but it is an interesting fact.
Location Middle Earth area. Head up the trail to the Middle Earth sport climbing area. Up the steps, and veer right, in a canyon by The Overhangs. You will see an obvious orange wall on the left side with some bolts.
Protection 4 shiny bolts with rap anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Finishing the first, harder, crux move on Orange S...
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BETA PHOTO: Making the high step and reach for the traverse mo...
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BETA PHOTO: Pulling through the final small face move (5.9ish)...
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Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Or...
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BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley moving off the high right foot--the...
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BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley on the second crux move of Orange S...
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Jeremy setting up TR
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| Comments on Orange Sunshine |
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008
| This is the best face climb in MG, IMHO. For one thing, it isn't mostly over slick grey rock. The orange patina provides a nice bite for the shoes. Also, it has a rather nice sequence on tiny holds, requiring balance and some smearing. The left variation is at least a solid .10b.
Orange Sunshine, Yellow Sunshine, Blue Barrel and their progenitor, Purple Microdot, were all forms of LSD in pill form, available into the early '80s, not that I would know anything about that. |
By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 9, 2008
| Route looks great, even if NOT on some Purple Thunder 650mcg acid. I'd say the more Mellow Yellow 250 , Orange Sunshine 350's would be a better choice if you don't want to get your freak on mid crux. But then again, if your brain thinks you are a fly on the wall, maybe you can climb like one too. Peace out. |
By Chadclendinen
Feb 17, 2013
| We set up TR on this to give it a try. Thought it was a 10c from the Topo we had. Tough climb but is one of the only walls in mission gorge that you can actually smear on.
To the right of it there is a nice little 5.5 or so flake you can free solo up to set a TR. I have heard there is a way to scrabble up the back side to the bolt anchors also. |
By Chris Orozco
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 29, 2013
| Isn't this Galadriel from the Hubbard / Kennedy SD Guidebook? 10c? I led it today with a buddy, didn't feel like 11a... |
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