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Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)
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Unsorted Routes:

Orange Flake 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 2,937
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Sep 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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First pitch

Description 

Two nice long pitches. First pitch climbs up to a bolt, then traverses up and right on face to another bolt, and to the "orange flake". You can place a small piece or two in this feature. The pitch then continues traversing up and right past another bolt or two to a corner crack system. Climb the crack system, traverse about 15-20 feet back left, and set a belay at the base of the crack system seen from the road. The second pitch climbs this long crack pitch, and contains some nice cracks, OW's and chimney moves.

One single rope rap off the back side gets you down.

Location 

When viewed from the parking lot by Hall of Horrors, this is the crack that parallels Right On, about 20-30 feet to it's left. It starts about 60-90 feet up & left from the start to Right On, and traverses up right to the base of the crack.

Protection 

Standard rack, with a 4 & 4.5 Camalot size piece optional. 60 meter rope beneficial.


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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 11, 2006

There's a more direct way of doing the first pitch: after passing the orange flake itself, continue climber's right but not all the way to the corner. Instead, climb straight up the water groove to the start of the wide crack. Not much harder, but with scant pro. This way you'll avoid having to traverse way right, then way back left.
By Drederek
Apr 3, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We did this route in 4 pitches. The traverse at the end of pitch one was not really a big deal after tiptoeing across the slab. With very comfortable belays every 60-100 feet there seemed no need lengthen them out. I'd suggest some armor for your right elbow on this one!
By Graham Roff
Apr 12, 2010

The first pitch is a good balancy friction one that ends right at the start of the long crack immediately to the climber's left of Right One. The rest of the route (at least two pitches even with a 70m rope) follows this crack, and is a long offwidth grovel (don't bring a pack!). Unless that's your thing, you can rap down from anchors on Right On.
By Mike Hack
Apr 27, 2010

The off-width is evidently more enjoyable if you make your second carry the pack. If that's what you're into. (I suppose it's probably harder if you're into it, but you get more gear ...).
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Jan 2, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route could be done in three pitches with a 70 meter rope. Using our 60 m rope, it was 3 pitches and spare change. The offwidth sections are not that hard, and with good technique one could do them with a pack on. (If that's what you're into...)
By tanner jones
Feb 22, 2014

loved this climb. there are a lot of bolts on the slab, so it was a bit confusing trying to figure out which line was orange flake. in the end we went with the safest-looking option. really fun slab climbing.

knowing this thing has a lot of OW, i brought some big cams. but excellent small cam placements can be found in the back of the crack and i wouldn't recommend taking anything bigger than a number 3 black diamond.

also, i thought this was a much better climb than "right on". not sure why people think that choss pile is so classic and this thing is sub-par. i think the line is more aesthetic, the slab is longer, and the experience was more fun.