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Orange Crush

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anaconda-Da-Vida S 
Black Mamba S 
British Airways S 
Buried Treasure S 
Captain Hook S 
Chinese Water Torture T 
Citrasolve S 
Crusher, The S 
Drillary Step, The S 
Dynosoar S 
Flying Monkeys S 
Fresh Squeezed S 
King Cobra S 
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 
Oh My! finish S 
Opportunist, The S 
Orangahang S 
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 
Orange Sunshine S 
Original Orange Crush, The T 
Peter Pan S 
Predator S 
Prime Climb S 
Purple Microdot S 
Sir Edmond Drillary S 
Tin Man S 
Tin Monkeys S 
Tinkerbell S 
Tropicana S 
Vaporizer, The S 
White Snake S 

Orange Crush  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.80293, -71.83513 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 167,151
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 8, 2006
Forecast:
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Rain
55° | 45°
Rain
50° | 45°
Chance of Rain
48° | 41°
Clear
59° | 42°
Chance of Rain
49° | 40°
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Nancy and Keith in a sea of quickdraws. Upper left...

Description 

This large and complex cliff sits relatively high on the hill. For that reason, Orange Crush is an excellent choice on hot days, as the wind tends to cool the cliff.

The left side of the cliff is very steep, almost horizontal. Farther right, the angle lessens but the routes get longer. Therefore, the climbing at Orange Crush varies from horizontal roof problems to technical vertical faces.

Because of the sketchy composition of the rock on Orange Crush, many of the routes required massive cleaning projects before their first ascents. This is not to say that the rock is bad, as the routes have improved with numerous ascents. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.13b, with must do classics including: Tropicana 11a, Black Mamba 11b, The Crusher 11d, and Rumney's most photogenic route, Predator 13b.

Getting There 

Orange Crush is most commonly approached from the second, smaller parkinglot. A steep trail leads uphill from the lot and deposits one at New Wave Wall. Orange Crush is the big looming cliff to the left.

Alternatively, Orange Crush may be approached from Main Cliff. Simply skirt the cliff on the right side and head uphill. To reach Orange Crush from the more western crags, follow a trail through the woods from the top of Bonsai.

Note that the left-side routes at Orange Crush all start from a steep "death slab." To approach the slab and the start of routes like The Crusher, Tin Man, and Orangahang, a staircase allows passage over the steep bottom part of the slab. Be extra careful at the base of the aforementioned routes. It's a long way down from the slab.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.9 miles from here

31 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',9],['5.12',11],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Orange Crush:
Orange Sunshine   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Orange Crush (retro-bolted)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   
Tropicana   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches   
Prime Climb   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Buried Treasure   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Lions and Tigers and Bears   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Black Mamba   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Oh My! finish   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   
The Crusher   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Captain Hook   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
The Vaporizer   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   
White Snake   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Orangahang   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
British Airways   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 100'   
Flying Monkeys   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 65'   
Anaconda-Da-Vida   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Tin Man   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Dynosoar   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Predator   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Tin Monkeys   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Orange Crush

Featured Route For Orange Crush
otey on Flying Monkeys

Flying Monkeys 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  NH : Rumney : Orange Crush
Shares the start with Dino-soar and splits left following a yellow band of rock out the steepness.Starts just right of the small ledge at the top of the slab with the 2 glue-in belay anchors. Make your way through a short bouldery sequence moving out right and over a bulge followed by a good rest before entering the business.Climb a good flake to thin moves to an ok rest. Go past a few bouldery moves to a 2 finger slot and try to mantle the lip to a sloppey move up top. Rest in the alcove. Do...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Orange Crush Slideshow Add Photo
An attempt at sorting out the upper Orange Crush confusion.  The perspective of the original photo does play some tricks (especially w/ Dynosoars line) but hopefully this helps a lot (or prompts discussion).
BETA PHOTO: An attempt at sorting out the upper Orange Crush c...
The maps in the guide book always confused me... There for i didnt climb there for a long time... Now i understand the cliff with all of its link ups and here is a map the way it makes sense to me...
BETA PHOTO: The maps in the guide book always confused me... T...
4 ravens in the nest above Buried Treasure...
4 ravens in the nest above Buried Treasure...
Aryesh on flying monkeys on orange crush.  One of the most beautiful areas at rumney.
Aryesh on flying monkeys on orange crush. One of ...
im starting up Flying monkeys...
im starting up Flying monkeys...
lily using the Crusher start to get on to the predator ledge
lily using the Crusher start to get on to the pred...
Climber on the shared start of Flying Monkeys, Dynosoar and Lions & Tigers. He has unclipped the first two draws to reduce drag.
Climber on the shared start of Flying Monkeys, Dyn...
Map of a few routes on the upper left side of the cliff... Grades on the Tin routes still haven't settled in to a consensus since a hold broke, hence the question marks...
BETA PHOTO: Map of a few routes on the upper left side of the ...

Comments on Orange Crush Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 28, 2013
By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 5, 2007
A staircase was recently added to allow safe passage over the slab- quite nice if you ask me.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Apr 15, 2010
I wish there was a way to make the upper part of the trail less sketchy. I don't know if there would be a way to make another set of stairs all the way to the base of Orangahang or not
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 15, 2010
Yeah, we could use the AMC trail crew up there some more. To do it right I think we might need some steps like those going up towards Armed and Dangerous after the traverse across the slab. There needs to be a hardened landing zone too where people lower off to, so the steps should probably go through that spot and up since people are naturally going to go up there anyway to get back to their stuff.

I am a little concerned about the area just above the existing ladders since it is built up on a natural log. It was nice work at the time it went in, but it is already showing signs of decay and when that goes there will be a mess. I really liked the stone steps the AMC made just above that, but they only did a short stretch. Hopefully they are planning on coming back.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 12, 2010
Does anyone know why there is an axe in the cave by Orangahang? I slipped under there to avoid a spring rain shower and found an axe... Seemed kinda odd to me
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 12, 2010
Do you mean like a trail tool or something you would split wood with?
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 13, 2010
Yeah an axe to split wood.

I figured it was left there by a trail crew but it looks like it has been there for years...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 26, 2010
Climbing the longer routes on this cliff, at least the ones up to 12a is such and intense mental challenge... you find your self pulling hard sections with really good ledge rests between getting more and more tired as you go... the rests almost make it worse cause you have time to ponder the moves above, how far you've come, and the fact that if you blow one move you will have to start from the bottom again at some point... at least you will if you care to go through the mental battle all over again...

I love the mental game...
By David Savoie
May 21, 2013
Hi,

I've looked at King Cobra, at Orange Crush, and the route looked different from last year - are there reports that a part of it might have broke ?
By S. Neoh
Aug 26, 2013
There seems to be a new line of eyebolts left of Citrasolve. Are they for a new route? If so, what is it, where does it end, and what's the grade for it?
Thanks!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 28, 2013
The bolts for The Vaporizer are pretty close there, is that what you were looking at or did someone try to squeeze in another line?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 28, 2013
Another bolted line there would be very squeezed. There was already an old Mallery line called Another Conway Classic that was run over by the modern routes.
By S. Neoh
Aug 28, 2013
It could be Vaporizer, I am not sure but let me describe what I saw.
Suppose you are standing in the corner that marks the start of Citrasolve and Orange Crush. The line of "new" eyebolts are to your left, trending up at about a 45 deg angle. It looks like the 1st bolt of this line can be clipped from the top of the block that forms the left of the Citrasolve stemming start.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 28, 2013
Does it continue all the way to the ledge as a separate line or is it a couple bolt link up of Citrisolve into Vaporizor?
By S. Neoh
Aug 28, 2013
The first few bolts of this "new" line are completely separate from those for Citrasolve, tho there is one which is within a body length of the line people typically take on Citrasolve. Could this be an alternate start to Vaporizer?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 28, 2013
Hmmm, certainly sounds new. Maybe Chris or Ward would know. New start for Predator? Maybe RedBull is doing a commercial.
By S. Neoh
Aug 28, 2013
I don't want to stir up trouble .... but does the new route moratorium cover Orange Crush? I know New Wave is but not sure if it applies to OC.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 28, 2013
new-route-moratorium