Orange Crack 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Jim Kanzler, Pat Callis '72. FFA Kanzler, Terry Kennedy '77 |
| Submitted By: | Nick Stayner on Apr 17, 2007 |
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Lena Topping out on Orange Crack
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Description Enjoyable full-length route, though the first pitch is fun on its own, too.
p.1- Scramble up to a crack/corner, then up some more face climbing to an "offwidth" crack with a few faceholds. Climb it, and build a belay on a ledge beneath a roof. From here, you can walk off the ledge to the right. 5.9, ~80'.
p.2- Angle up and out the roof to the left, using a thin crack. Climb up a much easier face to meet the large ledge beneath the Standard Route's final pitches. Natural belay here. 5.11, ~120'.
p.3- Choose one of the Standard Route's final pitches. End on top at chains. 5.7-5.9, ~100'.
Location Locate the start near the right end of the tower's base. Descend via the rappels described in the Standard Route description.
Protection Take a 3.5 or 4 camalot for the wide crack on pitch one. Thin gear (TCUs or tiny camalots) protect the second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo. The top may actually follow a slightl...
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By Erik the Awful
From: Bozeman
Jul 23, 2009
| There are two bolts with beefy rap rings on top of the first pitch. For some reason the bolts were places within an inch or two of each other. Also, the first pitch pretty much a full 100ft. You can just TR Orange Crack and Tigger from the anchors with a 60m rope, but a 50m wouldn't be long enough for top roping. |
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Apr 25, 2011
| after the first pitch, continue up generation x (5.9 pg-13) and the 5.9 alt finish of the tower for a sweet 5.9 linkup. Also, the new bolts up there are in a poor spot. There are hairline cracks all around where the bolts were placed. More than one of my friends has gotten up there and felt they are sketchy. A rearrangement of these anchor bolts may be in order... |
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