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Orange Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Weidner, Alex Shainman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 435
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Apr 19, 2004
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At the start of the crux section. We approache via...
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  • Description 

    Imagine a plumb line straight down from the anchor atop the first pitch of "Where Eagles Dare". It is this orange streak of lichen that defines "Orange Corner". It is likely that this line has at least been toproped, but no information was found about this route.

    Begin by climbing the first 40 feet of unprotected slab on "Where Eagles Dare", but veer right on thin edges to approach the steep corner. Good gear can be placed before making a 10-foot rightward traverse underneath an overhang. The crux involves delicate footwork and scary moves traversing back left into the corner where a welcome jug exists. Climb up the corner to its top where more bomber gear can be placed (whew!). This is where "Eagles Are People Too," 10d, downclimbs a move and traverses the steep wall out right. Make a fun mantel move and wander up another 15 feet of easy ground to a 2-bolt anchor.


    Protection 

    Small to medium nuts, cams from #2TCU through #1 Camalot, long slings. There is a 2-bolt anchor on top.



    Photos of Orange Corner Slideshow Add Photo
    BETA PHOTO
    Chuck has the second jug and is stepping out left to a good foothold. The first jug is near his right knee. The gear to protect these moves are in the crack down and right of Chuck's right foot.
    Chuck has the second jug and is stepping out left ...
    Comments on Orange Corner Add Comment
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    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 6, 2005
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

    We rapped off P1 of Where Eagles Dare a few weeks ago and got a look at this climb, and I thought, "Yeah, it looks like about 5.8." So we decided it would make a good warm-up climb today. 5.8 is a major sandbag in my opinion. Felt more like Where Eagles Dare (10c). Way harder than any of the 4 bolted climbs to the left or any of the trad 9s at Blob. But perhaps I was in shock at running into such hard climbing on what I expected to be a cruise. The only thing that got me up the pitch was my unwillingness to downclimb to the ground to clean my gear.

    We approached the crux corner differently than described above. Rather than 'climbing the first 40 feet of unprotected slab on "Where Eagles Dare"' (disagree about the "unprotected" btw), we climbed right of the orange streak up a right leaning right facing groove and then angled left to the base of the corner. You could also climb straight up, left around a headwall and then slightly right to the same place (dirty and poor gear), or perhaps climb the headwall directly (cleaner but poor gear).

    The crux is S due to the likelihood of hitting the slab. There is excellent gear at your feet when you get the first jug (I had 4 good pieces).

    As for the "scary moves traversing back left into the corner", it sounds like Chris and Alex may have climbed up onto the slab right of the crux corner and then moved left. I considered that, but it looked way too scary. Maybe it's 5.8 that way? Instead I did some hard stemming to get the first jug. It took a long time to figure this move out. Then another hard move to get the second jug, which also was hard to figure.