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Crystal Freeway
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Exit Ramp 
Grunt Lieback 
Kitchen's Delight 2 
Mr. Chimp 
Northeast Cutoff 
Orange Christmas 
Strawberry Jam 
Strong Love 

Orange Christmas 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Piana and Skinner
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Jun 28, 2010
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Description 

A long and demanding pitch of face climbing and crystal pinching. The crux is in the first 25 feet and involves sustained face work up a water groove and then a very difficult pull over a bulge to get established on the lower angle wall above. After the crux bulge work straight up to the bottom of a large flake system (this is the route "Flake Out"). Place gear in the bottom of this crack and make a lengthy rightwards traverse aiming for the first of the bolts on the upper slab. The upper slab is easier (9+ or 10a in spots) but is very runout. 20 feet plus between old quarter inch bolts.


Location 

The route starts down and left from Strawberry Jam and Grunt Layback. Look for 4 old quarter inch bolts leading up and a little left through a water groove and over a bulge. The large flake system of Flake Out is directly above the start.


Protection 

8 bolts total. All bolts are original and marginal at best. The upper bolts have homemade aluminum hangers - very inspiring! The bottom 4 bolts are pretty close together for the hard climbing and the top 4 bolts are very spaced. You can also place a yellow metolius to protect the rightward traverse onto the upper face. A nice #2 camelot fits in here as well. There is a new and bomber two bolt anchor at the top with steel rap rings. You can make it with two ropes to the ground or you can use a single rope and make it to the anchors atop Grunt Layback and from there to the ground.



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