||Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||P1 Dean Saydom & Will Hair 2/94, P2 Paul Brunner & Marcel Eckhardt 12/96, P3 Paul Brunner & Trevor Massiah 10/97|
|Season: ||Dry Season|
|Page Views: ||1,774|
|Submitted By: ||DisturbingThePeace on Jan 9, 2008|
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Rappelling Orange Chandeliers
|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
Climb out of the boat on the right side of the tower to an anchor about 10 ft out of the water. You can belay your second up from here. From here traverse left ~50 feet with a fixed line and threads to clip, about 5.7. We belayed this section but it could easily be solo'd as you are above water after all.
Pitch 1 5.10d 10 bolts, 105 feet.
Climb upwards on tufas and stalactites, pulling a few steeper bulges along the way.
Pitch 2 5.11a 6 bolts 60 feet
Negotiate the steep start, then head up easier ground to the next anchor.
Pitch 3 5.11b 11 bolts 80 feet
Continue up through another steep bulge, to some easier ground. Hit the first crux where the steepness becomes vertical, the holds dramatically shrink in size, and the rock becomes sharp. Snag a rest on the next moderate section which goes back to the nice orange limestone and pull the final steep moves to the anchor.
On the left side of the Tower. The boatman should know where to drop you off.
The guides mention using 2 ropes to rappel from pitch 2, to try and keep your ropes dry, If I was to do it again I would only bring 1 70m rope and rappel with it on the last rap into the boat.
Rappel from the top pitch to Pitch 2, backclip a few bolts to maintain contact with the wall. From here you could rap to the ocean with two ropes or rappel back to the start of the route and do a short rappel back into the boat. All anchors are set up for rappel.
Bolts & Anchors, Take around 12 draws. This route was rebolted in 2/2000. There are plenty of bolts to choose from, make sure you choose the right ones.
Daniel somewhere on Orange Chandeliers.
The final steep moves of the last pitch.
BETA PHOTO: A shot from the base of Orange Chandeliers .
Qasim Finishing up pitch #2
BETA PHOTO: Bomber(?) anchor at the first belay of Orange Chan...
Nov 24, 2010
I have to say I think this route is about as much fun as you can have sport climbing. My brother and I grinned the whole way up.
Also, I think these rating are a bit sugar-bagged - don't know that there was a pitch over 10d/11a.
FYI, we rented a kayak and rowed out ourselves. Can't do the cool rap/pull ropes into the boat trick, but fun too.