Orangahang 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Mark Sprague / 1998 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Mar 11, 2007 |
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The crux of Orangahang. The Pirahna mouth is read...
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Description Endurance is the name of the game when attempting this route.
The line of jugs over your head may feel rather slippery due its extreme popularity (and if you opt NOT to used the feet on the opposing roof to your right...hint, hint!), but don't let that dissuade you--this route is super fun! As one steps from the massive spike that marks the beginning of this route, engaging and sequential moves are encountered all the way to the chains. The real crux of the route comes about midway out the roof when you are forced to either deadpoint off a hidden letterbox slot or finesse your way on atrociously slopey edges. Either way you'll end up grappling with a two-handed jug that looks curiously like a gaping Piranha mouth! Finish by surmounting a small roof and traversing right under the final overhang to a couple of pumpy, and airy, moves to the chains. After you clip the anchors, you will lower off about 40 to 50 feet out from the belayer, so be careful of the looming tree branches below you and the steep bank you will ultimately lower on to. Despite the potential for a little moisture around the last two bolts during rain, this routes stays predominantly dry even when it is dumping out.
Word of advice: Most people stick clip the first bolt, as a ground fall from here would spell certain doom!
Location Upper left section of Orange Crush at the man-made ledge. The steepest line of fixed draws over your head that angle up and left under and then over the enormous roof.
Protection 8 fixed quickdraws, and a glue-in bolt for the belayer.
Katy VanDis working the opening sequence. Photo b...
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RB killing it in style with his glasses strap.
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Dutch folk love Orangahangs.
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BETA PHOTO: Photo by Kathleen Tripodi
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BETA PHOTO: Photo by Kathleen Tripodi
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Stick it!
...Emile on the crux of Orangahang
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Emile emerging from the pseudo-rest as he starts t...
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You're almost there dude stay strong!
Emile neari...
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Chris Chin makes stick clip of the first bolt.
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Ward Smith enjoying another lap on Orangahang
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Orangahang's scenic backdrop
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daisy
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By Hannah W
Apr 23, 2010
| the quickdraw on the fourth bolt (right before the crux) is seriously worn/stiff
the other ones don't look fabulous either, but they are a bit better (perhaps because everyone is always taking whippers on the fourth).
I think next time I get on this I'll replace it, because if that thing snapped it would be bad. I don't think it's going to happen anytime super soon, but it eventually will go and one might as well replace it now.
It'll make me feel better in the very least! |
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.12b
| This is a really awesome climb, unfortunatley many of the holds are kinda greasy. But it is still really good. |
By S. Neoh
Sep 22, 2012
| Today we replaced the rope-side biner on the top 2 fixed draws before the anchor. The ones we took down have sharp edges on them that might do a number on one's rope. The other six rope-side biners are fine. In fact, many thanks to the party who replaced the fourth fixed (the one which takes the most falls) with a steel cable perma draw. Kudos!
We inspected the nylon on the remaining seven draws and all appear fine for the time being. If you want to replace a nylon dogbone, bring a small wrench to loosen the quicklink that attaches it to the bolt/hanger and then retighten the link. |
By JohnnyG
Oct 14, 2012
| We replaced the rope-side biner on the 2nd draw a couple days ago. It was well worn and wicked sharp. Amazing how fast this can happen, considering the lower biners were reported as fine a couple weeks ago. |
By calmvschaos
Apr 15, 2013
| The biner on the right set of chains is wearing down to a fairly sharp groove. I didn't have any on me, so I didn't replace it, but I did flip it so I wasn't running my rope over it. Next time I make it over there, I will try to remember to bring some hardware to replace it but it might be a few weeks. |
By Andrea Charest
Apr 28, 2013
| First 3 fixed draws and draw after the cable draw replaced 4.27.13. One of the anchor biners also replaced. Things are getting pretty old all around at Orange Crush... take some time and do what you can when you see things showing signs of wear. |
By S. Neoh
Apr 28, 2013
| Thank you, Andrea, and a big CONGRATS on your send today.
Yank the Mank. I expect I will be on this route this year and will do my share of maintenance.
To all, if possible, replace aluminum biners with steel ones as the latter takes longer to wear down. Steel biners are about $10 each and they are not as nice to clip but I think on this route they ought to be standard equipment given the traffic it receives. |
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