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Endurance is the name of the game when attempting this route.
The line of jugs over your head may feel rather slippery due its extreme popularity (and if you opt NOT to used the feet on the opposing roof to your right...hint, hint!), but don't let that dissuade you--this route is super fun! As one steps from the massive spike that marks the beginning of this route, engaging and sequential moves are encountered all the way to the chains. The real crux of the route comes about midway out the roof when you are forced to either deadpoint off a hidden letterbox slot or finesse your way on atrociously slopey edges. Either way you'll end up grappling with a two-handed jug that looks curiously like a gaping Piranha mouth! Finish by surmounting a small roof and traversing right under the final overhang to a couple of pumpy, and airy, moves to the chains. After you clip the anchors, you will lower off about 40 to 50 feet out from the belayer, so be careful of the looming tree branches below you and the steep bank you will ultimately lower on to. Despite the potential for a little moisture around the last two bolts during rain, this routes stays predominantly dry even when it is dumping out.
Word of advice: Most people stick clip the first bolt, as a ground fall from here would spell certain doom!
Upper left section of Orange Crush at the man-made ledge. The steepest line of fixed draws over your head that angle up and left under and then over the enormous roof.
8 fixed quickdraws, and a glue-in bolt for the belayer.
|By Hannah W|
Apr 23, 2010
the quickdraw on the fourth bolt (right before the crux) is seriously worn/stiff
the other ones don't look fabulous either, but they are a bit better (perhaps because everyone is always taking whippers on the fourth).
I think next time I get on this I'll replace it, because if that thing snapped it would be bad. I don't think it's going to happen anytime super soon, but it eventually will go and one might as well replace it now.
It'll make me feel better in the very least!
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
This is a really awesome climb, unfortunatley many of the holds are kinda greasy. But it is still really good.
|By S. Neoh|
Sep 22, 2012
Today we replaced the rope-side biner on the top 2 fixed draws before the anchor. The ones we took down have sharp edges on them that might do a number on one's rope. The other six rope-side biners are fine. In fact, many thanks to the party who replaced the fourth fixed (the one which takes the most falls) with a steel cable perma draw. Kudos!
We inspected the nylon on the remaining seven draws and all appear fine for the time being. If you want to replace a nylon dogbone, bring a small wrench to loosen the quicklink that attaches it to the bolt/hanger and then retighten the link.
Oct 14, 2012
We replaced the rope-side biner on the 2nd draw a couple days ago. It was well worn and wicked sharp. Amazing how fast this can happen, considering the lower biners were reported as fine a couple weeks ago.
Apr 15, 2013
The biner on the right set of chains is wearing down to a fairly sharp groove. I didn't have any on me, so I didn't replace it, but I did flip it so I wasn't running my rope over it. Next time I make it over there, I will try to remember to bring some hardware to replace it but it might be a few weeks.
|By Andrea Charest|
Apr 28, 2013
First 3 fixed draws and draw after the cable draw replaced 4.27.13. One of the anchor biners also replaced. Things are getting pretty old all around at Orange Crush... take some time and do what you can when you see things showing signs of wear.
|By J Meagher|
Aug 18, 2013
Excellent route for people who love to climb hard but are nervous about pushing themselves on lead, because the falls are incredibly safe. Awesome jug hauling for the first 4 bolts and a dynamic crux between the 4th and 5th bolts. There are now permanent cable draws on all 8 bolts
|By S. Neoh|
Aug 18, 2013
Great news about cable draws on all the bolts. I've not been back since last year. Now I am motivated! I can't say I have seen anyone send this route with a real dynamic move thru the crux tho. I do however cut my feet loose and reset to finish the crux sequence.
|By J Meagher|
4 days ago
Would it be unreasonable to expect to find this dry tomorrow?
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
3 days ago
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
It can be damp from the overnight dew... but the route stays pretty dry