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Orange Crush
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Orangahang 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague / 1998
Page Views: 6,805
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Mar 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Stick it! ...Emile on the crux of Orangahang

Description 

Endurance is the name of the game when attempting this route.
The line of jugs over your head may feel rather slippery due its extreme popularity (and if you opt NOT to used the feet on the opposing roof to your right...hint, hint!), but don't let that dissuade you--this route is super fun! As one steps from the massive spike that marks the beginning of this route, engaging and sequential moves are encountered all the way to the chains. The real crux of the route comes about midway out the roof when you are forced to either deadpoint off a hidden letterbox slot or finesse your way on atrociously slopey edges. Either way you'll end up grappling with a two-handed jug that looks curiously like a gaping Piranha mouth! Finish by surmounting a small roof and traversing right under the final overhang to a couple of pumpy, and airy, moves to the chains. After you clip the anchors, you will lower off about 40 to 50 feet out from the belayer, so be careful of the looming tree branches below you and the steep bank you will ultimately lower on to. Despite the potential for a little moisture around the last two bolts during rain, this routes stays predominantly dry even when it is dumping out.
Word of advice: Most people stick clip the first bolt, as a ground fall from here would spell certain doom!

Location 

Upper left section of Orange Crush at the man-made ledge. The steepest line of fixed draws over your head that angle up and left under and then over the enormous roof.

Protection 

8 fixed quickdraws, and a glue-in bolt for the belayer.


Photos of Orangahang Slideshow Add Photo
Ward Smith enjoying another lap on Orangahang
Ward Smith enjoying another lap on Orangahang
My first time on Orangahang
My first time on Orangahang
Photo by Kathleen Tripodi
BETA PHOTO: Photo by Kathleen Tripodi
You're almost there dude stay strong! <br /> <br />Emile nearing the rest on Orangahang
You're almost there dude stay strong! Emile neari...
daisy
daisy
Emile emerging from the pseudo-rest as he starts to steep
Emile emerging from the pseudo-rest as he starts t...
The crux of Orangahang.  The Pirahna mouth is ready to eat my left hand!!
The crux of Orangahang. The Pirahna mouth is read...
Photo by Kathleen Tripodi
BETA PHOTO: Photo by Kathleen Tripodi
Chris Chin makes stick clip of the first bolt.
Chris Chin makes stick clip of the first bolt.
RB killing it in style with his glasses strap.
RB killing it in style with his glasses strap.
Starting up Orangahang
Starting up Orangahang
Orangahang's scenic backdrop
Orangahang's scenic backdrop
Katy VanDis working the opening sequence.  Photo by Chris Duca
Katy VanDis working the opening sequence. Photo b...
Dutch folk love Orangahangs.
Dutch folk love Orangahangs.
Trying to finesse along the atrociously slopey edges...
Trying to finesse along the atrociously slopey edg...
Charles-Alexandre Brouillard at the crux.
Charles-Alexandre Brouillard at the crux.

Comments on Orangahang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 12, 2014
By Hannah W
Apr 23, 2010

the quickdraw on the fourth bolt (right before the crux) is seriously worn/stiff
the other ones don't look fabulous either, but they are a bit better (perhaps because everyone is always taking whippers on the fourth).

I think next time I get on this I'll replace it, because if that thing snapped it would be bad. I don't think it's going to happen anytime super soon, but it eventually will go and one might as well replace it now.

It'll make me feel better in the very least!
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This is a really awesome climb, unfortunatley many of the holds are kinda greasy. But it is still really good.
By S. Neoh
Sep 22, 2012

Today we replaced the rope-side biner on the top 2 fixed draws before the anchor. The ones we took down have sharp edges on them that might do a number on one's rope. The other six rope-side biners are fine. In fact, many thanks to the party who replaced the fourth fixed (the one which takes the most falls) with a steel cable perma draw. Kudos!
We inspected the nylon on the remaining seven draws and all appear fine for the time being. If you want to replace a nylon dogbone, bring a small wrench to loosen the quicklink that attaches it to the bolt/hanger and then retighten the link.
By JohnnyG
Oct 14, 2012

We replaced the rope-side biner on the 2nd draw a couple days ago. It was well worn and wicked sharp. Amazing how fast this can happen, considering the lower biners were reported as fine a couple weeks ago.
By calmvschaos
Apr 15, 2013

The biner on the right set of chains is wearing down to a fairly sharp groove. I didn't have any on me, so I didn't replace it, but I did flip it so I wasn't running my rope over it. Next time I make it over there, I will try to remember to bring some hardware to replace it but it might be a few weeks.
By Andrea Charest
Apr 28, 2013

First 3 fixed draws and draw after the cable draw replaced 4.27.13. One of the anchor biners also replaced. Things are getting pretty old all around at Orange Crush... take some time and do what you can when you see things showing signs of wear.
By J Meagher
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Excellent route for people who love to climb hard but are nervous about pushing themselves on lead, because the falls are incredibly safe. Awesome jug hauling for the first 4 bolts and a dynamic crux between the 4th and 5th bolts. There are now permanent cable draws on all 8 bolts
By S. Neoh
Aug 18, 2013

Great news about cable draws on all the bolts. I've not been back since last year. Now I am motivated! I can't say I have seen anyone send this route with a real dynamic move thru the crux tho. I do however cut my feet loose and reset to finish the crux sequence.
By J Meagher
Apr 12, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Would it be unreasonable to expect to find this dry tomorrow?
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 12, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

It can be damp from the overnight dew... but the route stays pretty dry