Orangahang is located 30 yards right of the 3rd class gully, and ascends an obvious break in the bulge. Juggy moves over the bulge lead to easier slab/crack climbing.
The bulge is bolted, and then trad gear towards the top. The anchors are shared with Many Happy Returns. For toproping, bring a long sling, as the anchor is set back from the face.
Perennial favorite Orangahang, at San Ysidro Canyo...
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 16, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Even though this route goes through a slight overhang, nice hand and foot holds make for a route that people of all experience levels can enjoy. Can set up a TR by heading up the gully to the left of the climb - bolts for TR.
|By Adam D|
From: Los Osos, CA
Dec 20, 2007
reasonably protected without the bolts if you're so inclined.
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My experience has been that this route eats some beginners alive. The movement through the crux is awkward, strenuous and reachy--not the best route for building a beginner's confidence or for teaching first-timers good climbing technique.
|By Brian Paden|
From: Goleta CA
Sep 24, 2010
If you use some long slings down low you can move right and link up with the upper part of what I think is rick's route. Makes the pitch longer and is well protected.