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Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
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Ora the Explorer  

5.6 R

   
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
FA: Bradley White Oct. 2012
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: bradley white on Oct 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Start on left side of lichen slab on big holds. Smear up to a rail. Traverse rail right to groove. Climb groove to smear up to giant grass ledge. Forty feet up and the grass ledge is fifty feet wide. A nice walk before tackling the crux bulge. Crux is smear up to rail and get smear foot higher than rail to reach a bucket hand hold. Not over because the next rail is out of reach without another smear or two. then it's over. Low angle rock and grass fifty more feet to trees. The climb would have two stars but the forty foot slab start is very much lichen covered. The crux is clean enough. Free soloed


Location 

300 ft east of Utopia Ledges. 20 ft uphill and furthest left from base of the slabs here. Nice ground below slab that's flat.


Protection 

TCU or half tri cams or ball nuts would be best. Other wise baby angle pitons. Pro is there when needed most.