Opus 73  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Jim Erickson and Steve Wunsch 1973 Submitted By:  Dave Holliday on Nov 6, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route ascends a right-facing dihedral system up to a wide crack (that narrows down) through an overhang. It starts to the right of the face that contains Peril-less Journey. I started by clipping the first bolt of a new sport route just to the right of Peril-less Journey and then firing straight up the dihedral. There are many dubious flakes along the way, and the rock is not great until you're just below the overhang and wide crack. The rock is quite solid from there to the top.

I finished by reaching over to the left and clipping the anchor of Burning Down the House. I'm sure the route continued a few feet more to the top when it was first put up, but we didn't do that.

The route can be seen in the beta photo for Burning Down the House. It's to the right of that route.

Protection 

Standard rack to #4 Friend. Doubles of hand-size pieces would be useful. Although I didn't have one, a much larger piece might work in the wide crack at the start of the overhang. I was comfortable without such a piece.