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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallow Tail T,S 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

Opus 7 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith, 1987
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: caughtinside on Mar 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This is the bolted face just to the right of Farley. They share an anchor, so it is a good toprope after leading farley. Thin and sustained climbing up edges and tiny knobs upto a groove, then to a couple big kobs below the anchors.

Location 

just right of farley, left of taurus. shares bolted anchor with farley.

Protection 

bolts


Comments on Opus 7 Add Comment
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Dec 20, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This thing is damn hard slab. I would love to call this 5.12 if not for the fact that I have been on 11b slabs in the Valley that are a kick in the pants like this thing is.

11d/12a is probably fair, but this ain't no sport climb. I could be swayed to upping my grade to 12a if others felt that way, but as it seems, very few folks have given this a grade.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 21, 2010

Thanks for the input. I put this thing in after I tried it in the sun and got totally smoked, some moves felt impossible. I tried it again last year and while I did not send, it felt much more reasonable, and I think you are probably correct with the .11d grade. I'll make the change.