|Sugarloaf, East Face
This is the bolted face just to the right of Farley. They share an anchor, so it is a good toprope after leading farley. Thin and sustained climbing up edges and tiny knobs upto a groove, then to a couple big kobs below the anchors.
just right of farley, left of taurus. shares bolted anchor with farley.
|By J. Albers|
Dec 20, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
This thing is damn hard slab. I would love to call this 5.12 if not for the fact that I have been on 11b slabs in the Valley that are a kick in the pants like this thing is.
11d/12a is probably fair, but this ain't no sport climb. I could be swayed to upping my grade to 12a if others felt that way, but as it seems, very few folks have given this a grade.
From: Oakland CA
Dec 21, 2010
Thanks for the input. I put this thing in after I tried it in the sun and got totally smoked, some moves felt impossible. I tried it again last year and while I did not send, it felt much more reasonable, and I think you are probably correct with the .11d grade. I'll make the change.