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Opus 7 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith, 1987
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: caughtinside on Mar 12, 2007
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Description 

This is the bolted face just to the right of Farley. They share an anchor, so it is a good toprope after leading farley. Thin and sustained climbing up edges and tiny knobs upto a groove, then to a couple big kobs below the anchors.


Location 

just right of farley, left of taurus. shares bolted anchor with farley.


Protection 

bolts



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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Dec 20, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

This thing is damn hard slab. I would love to call this 5.12 if not for the fact that I have been on 11b slabs in the Valley that are a kick in the pants like this thing is.

11d/12a is probably fair, but this ain't no sport climb. I could be swayed to upping my grade to 12a if others felt that way, but as it seems, very few folks have given this a grade.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 21, 2010

Thanks for the input. I put this thing in after I tried it in the sun and got totally smoked, some moves felt impossible. I tried it again last year and while I did not send, it felt much more reasonable, and I think you are probably correct with the .11d grade. I'll make the change.