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The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar 
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Optimator 
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Unsorted Routes:

Optimator 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Jose Pereyra
Page Views: 6,269
Submitted By: Jeremy H on Nov 6, 2007
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Description 

This route is to the far right of the wall. climb up onto a ledge to start the climb. Begin with a 20 foot right facing corner, then switch to a left facing corner for another 15 feet. Pass a few pods and try and rest before the imposing splitter above.


Protection 

the first corner is yellow alien.
You can fit a #1 when you switch corners.
The second corner goes from yellows alien to orange Metolius.
Place a couple .5 camalots before the pods.
Then you can place 4 .75 camalots or Red Metolius up to the bulge.
The bulge goes back to .5 camalots or red alien. through the roof.
Then you can place a few orange Metolius or Red alien to the top.
You can place 1 .75 at the top



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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Nov 7, 2007

I would suggest taking one or two green aliens for the first couple of moves in the second corner. This route is amazing...FA Steve Petro?

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 16, 2007

F.A. by the late Jose Pereyra. He also has an unrepeated route north of Lake Powell, "No Way Jose."

By Bob Dobalina
Jun 11, 2009

I sent this route... in my dreams! Looks so clean that you could eat off of it.

By Ron P
Nov 18, 2012

The new guide says this is 130 feet, has anyone lowered off this with a 70m?

By Highlander
From: Ouray, CO
Feb 22, 2013

70m works