Optic Nerve  5.9 X

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Douglas Snively and Bernard Gillett Submitted By:  Kurt Johnson on Oct 30, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Doug enjoying the benefits of a TR on a nice Novem...

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Optic Nerve is a fun but seldom-climbed route that goes right up the lens part of Lens Rock. Its X rating comes from the fact that the only pro is near the very bottom, and after that it's nothing but friction, crystals, and crimpers. A bolted anchor near the top makes it accessible to us top-roping mortals. However you choose to do it, start from an obvious tree about halfway between The Frame's offwidth and the obviously bolted Ellipse, and head up a flake which soon gives way to the blank face that continues all the way to the top.

Location 

We accessed it from the top after doing Tennis Shoe Tango, but if you're heading straight there from the bottom, reverse the descent route, which goes down (or up, depending) the east side over slabs and through gullies.

Protection 

Perhaps a crash pad would be more useful than a rack. But seriously, if you plan on soloing...uh, I mean leading, a standard rack is way more than you'll ever need. For a toprope, bring a couple long runners and belay from the top.