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Open Space Cowboy S 
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Open Space Cowboy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, Kirk Miller, 6/8/3
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,706
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on May 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Just through 1st crux on "Open Space Cowboy&q...

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Burly, thuggish 5.11 leads to the first crux. After pulling the tricky .12a undercling traverse, pull up onto a slab to rest up for the second .12a crux; thin, powerful moves lead to big holds to pull through the roof to the anchors.


This is right of Howdy Doody Time, left of Double Dominatrix.


12 bolts to chains.

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Patrick in the thick of it on Open Space Cowboy.
Patrick in the thick of it on Open Space Cowboy.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 7, 2015
By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Sep 30, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Excellent route with a variety of interesting moves... nice, pumpy finish too!
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Oct 15, 2012

Is this really 12 a/b? Seems soft, as far as Shelf and Flatirons standards, mayby BC standards....
By Ben Walburn
Oct 15, 2012

Kevin, you're just a pulling down machine. Great route with some really fun climbing on the lower half and the pumpy finish.
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Oct 15, 2012

Well, I'll take that. Glad you guys had fun.
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Oct 26, 2012

You're probably right, Kevin. 12a seems to be the going consensus. I'll go with that.
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Oct 27, 2012

Regardless, one of the best routes in the Front Range.
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Excellent route. Two 12 cruxes. I'm gonna say 12a/b for BoCan. Well protected, such a teacher!
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2013

Tricky route for the onsight.... Pretty cool engaging moves with a crux down low and one up high. Brilliant!
By Mark Rolofson
Jun 4, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This was our first route on the crag & in Golden Gate. First ascent date was June 8, 2003. Always fun to repeat, but I keep cutting my left arm below 5th bolt unless I tape or wear a jacket.
By michalm
Jul 13, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This is a really fun route. The holds are all quite good, but the pump factor is high on this one. Fortunately, there is a really good rest before each crux to depump. The sequences are less than immediately obvious at first. There could be 2-3 fewer bolts without a detriment to safety. 5.9 moves don't need to be protected as closely as 11+ moves and being able to make a few moves before a clip makes for a more pleasant climbing experience.
By Brett S.
Sep 7, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Rad climb. My first time up at Golden Gate, and I must say, I am impressed. This crag has great ambiance, tucked in the forest on a hillside. Such a different vibe than the more urban setting of CCC and North Table. The bottom crux felt a bit harder than the upper crux. Very fun route. This would be a good entry into the .12a grade, there's a bolt about every 5 ft.!
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