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T-Wall East
Routes Sorted
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Brazen Serpent 
Bugs From Hell 
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Meeker Rat, The 
Molly and Rocket 
Motor Booty 
Mrs. Socrates 
Multiple Use Area 
My Lost China Doll 
Myth of the Spastics 
New Beginnings 
Night Shift 
No More Tiers 
Open Sesame 
People's Express 
Plastic Toys 
Point of Departure 
Points O' Contact 
Precious Orr 
Prerequisite for Excellence 
Puppy Ride 
Razor Worm 
Reptile Analysis 
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Restless Pedestrian 
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Shiva's Last Dance 
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Sly Willie Snores 
Some Girls 
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Squatter's Rites 
Standard Deviation 
Steel Puppies 
Stepping Stone 
Stone Wave 
Sugar in the Raw 
Sun King 
Sunday Gardening 
Super Slide 
Surf's Up 
Sweep, The 
Time Takes a Cigarette 
Totem Pole 
Twistin' in the Wind 
Up in Arms 
Who Needs a Thnead? 

Open Sesame 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Steve Goins, Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 2,173
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006
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Open Sesame


Open Sesame gets my vote for 'T-Wall's airiest 5.8'.

Beginning with the opening jughaul through stacked flakes, and continuing over a pair of bulges, Open Sesame confronts the solid 5.8 leader with a series of stiff moves that will fill britches, at the very least, with lots of air. The rest is up to you.

Pull over the junky-looking tiers to the right of the cave and head for a pair of bottomless thin cracks below a smaller cave. Wrestling over this cave with dignity intact will be the crux for most; after this, a long, exposed crack leads to the right side of the big roof above.


Pass Precious Orr, Stepping Stone etc. and continue along until the trail pops up a little set of stairs and passes beneath a jungly, low-angle section with a don't-touch-that pillar atop stacked blocks of choss. You're looking for a 15'-wide cave above the trail that has calved off a series of table-sized slabs; the route emerges from the right side of the cave and heads for the right margin of a big roof at the clifftop.


Ringbolts at the top. You'll want the belayer tied in to the bottom of the rope for this one if lowering off; a 60m rope won't have much left here.

Photos of Open Sesame Slideshow Add Photo
Tim about to start route with a few spotters ready.  Route and belay was super wet this day.
Tim about to start route with a few spotters ready...
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By 426
Feb 27, 2007

  • **Spoiler alert*****

#5 wc protects top perfectly.

Bottom is a bit loose with poor pro.

Leaving cave with dignity---secret jugs abound, do not do what I did and crawl in (wanting to die). This crack eats all kind of pro.

Can reach trail with 70m. Please tie a knott if using shorter ropes.