Open Sesame  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  Steve Goins, Rob Robinson - 1985 Submitted By:  Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Open Sesame

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Description 

Open Sesame gets my vote for 'T-Wall's airiest 5.8'.

Beginning with the opening jughaul through stacked flakes, and continuing over a pair of bulges, Open Sesame confronts the solid 5.8 leader with a series of stiff moves that will fill britches, at the very least, with lots of air. The rest is up to you.

Pull over the junky-looking tiers to the right of the cave and head for a pair of bottomless thin cracks below a smaller cave. Wrestling over this cave with dignity intact will be the crux for most; after this, a long, exposed crack leads to the right side of the big roof above.

Location 

Pass Precious Orr, Stepping Stone etc. and continue along until the trail pops up a little set of stairs and passes beneath a jungly, low-angle section with a don't-touch-that pillar atop stacked blocks of choss. You're looking for a 15'-wide cave above the trail that has calved off a series of table-sized slabs; the route emerges from the right side of the cave and heads for the right margin of a big roof at the clifftop.

Protection 

Ringbolts at the top. You'll want the belayer tied in to the bottom of the rope for this one if lowering off; a 60m rope won't have much left here.