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T-Wall East
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Open Sesame 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Steve Goins, Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 2,173
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006
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Open Sesame

Description 

Open Sesame gets my vote for 'T-Wall's airiest 5.8'.

Beginning with the opening jughaul through stacked flakes, and continuing over a pair of bulges, Open Sesame confronts the solid 5.8 leader with a series of stiff moves that will fill britches, at the very least, with lots of air. The rest is up to you.

Pull over the junky-looking tiers to the right of the cave and head for a pair of bottomless thin cracks below a smaller cave. Wrestling over this cave with dignity intact will be the crux for most; after this, a long, exposed crack leads to the right side of the big roof above.


Location 

Pass Precious Orr, Stepping Stone etc. and continue along until the trail pops up a little set of stairs and passes beneath a jungly, low-angle section with a don't-touch-that pillar atop stacked blocks of choss. You're looking for a 15'-wide cave above the trail that has calved off a series of table-sized slabs; the route emerges from the right side of the cave and heads for the right margin of a big roof at the clifftop.


Protection 

Ringbolts at the top. You'll want the belayer tied in to the bottom of the rope for this one if lowering off; a 60m rope won't have much left here.



Photos of Open Sesame Slideshow Add Photo
Tim about to start route with a few spotters ready.  Route and belay was super wet this day.
Tim about to start route with a few spotters ready...
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By 426
Feb 27, 2007

  • **Spoiler alert*****

#5 wc protects top perfectly.

Bottom is a bit loose with poor pro.

Leaving cave with dignity---secret jugs abound, do not do what I did and crawl in (wanting to die). This crack eats all kind of pro.

Can reach trail with 70m. Please tie a knott if using shorter ropes.