This is easily the best 5.11 in the area, and if not for some stiff competition from Eagle Canyon, would be the best of the grade at Cochiti.
Long and sustained with stellar rock, this line can be a bit intimidating, with somewhat spaced bolts. This route is rather slabby, and as such, the holds are quite small.
On a tall wall at the far left end of the North Cliffband with 3 bolted routes, just before the cliff ends. This wall is about 50 feet to the left of La Espina. This is the second bolted route from the left. Starts atop a large block.
Bolts. Its possible, though a bit tricky, to TR this route. A stick clip is recommended if leading.
|Comments on Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS)
|By Matthew NM|
Jul 3, 2007
like most routes at Cochiti, OMS is replete with manufactured holds and does not merit 4 stars.
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 9, 2007
See comment for Dough Boy.
Anyway, you may be right. I'm not the most astute when it comes to identifying chipped holds. The climbing is really excellent IMO, regardless of how the holds got there.
I think you raise an interesting ethical question: Is it ok to enjoy a chipped route? Obviously I believe the answer is yes. I often state that I would never chip a route myself, but I can understand why some have done it in the past. I believe this makes me a hypocrite. If a person is truly "anti-chipping" it seems that person should boycott any chipped routes. I would probably do that if I lived in a universe surrounded by an unending supply of challenging, 4-star, classic, 100% natural routes. Unfortunately I live in NM, so I have two choices: climb chipped routes, or give up sport climbing. I've chosen to do the former, and I make an effort to remain naive about it.
I agree that if the route is chipped, it should be reflected in the quality ratings, but since I don't know for a fact that it is chipped, I prefer not to make libelous assumptions about people I've never met. Calling somebody a chipper is about the worst slur you can hurl at a climber these days, so its difficult for me to list someone as an FA, and then state that the route is chipped, since doing so is tantamount to an accusation. What I do know for a fact is that I really enjoyed the route.
There has been a lot of debate recently about how routes should be star-rated. It is my approach to rate routes relative to other routes in the area. So the point in giving OMS 4 stars is to imply that it is better than most of the other 5.11s in the Jemez. It may be true that all of the cochiti routes deserve 1-star when compared to Ceuse, however, if routes were rated this way, there would be very little fidelity into the route's perceived quality.
Anyway, my opinion is worth no more than anyone elses (except to me), so you are welcome to give the route as many or few stars as you deem fit. I'm just happy somebody is actually reading this page!
|By Anthony Stout|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 10, 2007
Well stated, Monomaniac. Also, Matthew, as stated in another comment, it would be great if you could use the green button to submit your opinion on star ratings and grades. One of the great attributes of MP is that it averages people opinions so that routes can be rated (both quality and graded) via consensus. Of course, you are also welcome to justify all of your ratings in the comments if you so desire.
|By David Baltz|
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Aug 14, 2008
It's definitely a four-star route! Matthew mentions that the holds were "manufactured," which I don't believe is completely accurate. There is a difference between 'cleaning' and 'chipping.' My understanding is that the pockets were already there, and Jean just cleaned some soft ash out of them (perhaps a little too aggressively in the opinion of some).
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jun 24, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Awesome route, even if it is chipped (which I'm not sure is true!). Sequency and thin crux between the second and third bolt, and then hard again at the anchors. OMS felt at least a letter grade harder than Pickpocket. I think Jackson's Rock Climbing New Mexico lists Pickpocket as chipped and says nothing about OMS, but this obviously does nothing to prove either statement.