Open Gate  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  arjunmh on Jan 9, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Hanna starting Lil' Devil, which is also start of ...

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Description 

Three stars and 5.9 if you climb this without touching the back wall. Rock quality is superb and the right leaning diagonal crack offers a delightful line up through this corridor. Follow this crack up about 30-40 feet to where it runs out and then head straight up thinly protected face to access anchors on top of this formation. Note that this climb is ideal free soloing practice as the back wall is so close that you can lean up against it, or stem from up higher if you get into trouble. Also good practice if you're ramping up your trad leading.

Location 

From the TBA climbs on the front buttress turn uphill (climber's right) and step up a level. A narrow passage opens up to your right. There's a right leaning diagonal crack that leads up the left wall (roughly north facing). Climb that to the vertical face above. DO NOT touch the back wall unless you're in trouble!

Protection 

Single rack of cams.