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Water Wall and Lower Areas
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Open Books 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jay Foley, Donna Longo
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 24, 2009
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Description 

Another quality line on Water Wall, Open Books starts up 3 open book features, then turns a roof at the top.

Start in the first open book, step right on a ledge, head up the 2nd open book (still easy), step right and enter the 3rd open book. A technical crux guards the exit stepping left out of this last corner, which is followed by easy climbing to the headwall. Clip a piton with a big reach (can be backed up with gear), and turn the tricky steep section- the 2nd crux of the route- to the big ledge and the anchor.


Location 

Middle to right side of Water Wall. Just left of Gothic Pillar, look for 3 open book/wide groove features, each one to the right of the one below it.


Protection 

Cams and nuts to 2". A fixed piton protects the upper crux.
3-bolt anchor, with quicklinks equipped for rappelling, is found on the ledge at the top (and is likely new since it isn't mentioned in the books).



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By Jfoley
Jun 3, 2010

Donna and I originally climbed this route to the top and walked off. The final head wall above new anchor makes for a couple more good moves and the belay at the top was a nice way to finish. Not sure who placed the anchor but we used it this weekend and it seemed OK.

By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

The fixed pin at the upper overhang is a pretty janky placement; might not even hold body weight, and the eye is placed so it won't accept a carabiner. Best plan is to not plan on counting on it. Gear can be placed nearby.
Great climb, otherwise.

By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Was a bit sketched out when I saw that pin. A #1 or #2 C4 in a flared pod below will back it up, but I could not find any other decent gear at that spot plus your last piece will be likely 20 feet below you at this point.