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This slick open book is probably the hardest 5.8 in White Rock/Los Alamos, and is unfortunately a classic. Many people find it frustrating, but I think it is one of the best easier cracks at White Rock.
Stem and jam your way up the first 15' of thin hands in the back of the open book (crux) to a few good holds, and a stemming rest. This slippery crux spits off many people, but pro is good. Next, lieback or scum your way up a wide hand crack in a right-facing corner to another good rest below a slab/ramp leading up and left. Follow up this airy ramp, which has better footholds on the exposed left edge.
This is the obvious open book that begins just left of the cave on the north side.
1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed by unknown parties to prevent further damage to trees.
By John Keller
Mar 8, 2012
Now why would you call this climb 'unfortunately' a classic? I grew up on this climb. It's fantastic. If the Open Book (and Lost Almost in general) is where you learned hand jams, you can climb cracks anywhere. Because of this climb, I'm never so happy as when I have my hands in a crack.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 9, 2012
This is one of the more varied and interesting entry-level cracks at the Y (or all of White Rock), I agree.
Many people seem to get frustrated with this climb, especially the start. Even though it's nominally rated only 5.8+, people with little experience on cracks seem to have troubles. (It might be a little tougher for short people, or those with smaller hands/fingers.) I guess that is what I was hinting at when I wrote the description.