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Open Book 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 1,141
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 13, 2007
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There is the open book.

Description 

This climb is a great moderate for beginners (top-rope) who want to challenge themselves and competent leaders who want to scare themselves with the runout near the bottom and towards the top.

Start off the ground at a small corner and a polished high foot, smear your feet up the polish with a pinch on the left arete of the corner and your right hand desperately searching for a good hold, get into a standing position and make your way up to the very small gear placement about 15 ft off the ground then make your way up easier ground and eventually a slab to the top.


Location 

Obvious shallow, right-facing corner on right/center of cliff.


Protection 

Small at the bottom and spaced at the top.



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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 14, 2007

I find the first 15-20 feet to be the scary part when leading it due to the fact that you don't get any pro till you are past the crux (which feels harder every year due to the polishing of the "foot holds")....

By nbb
Mar 12, 2008

I placed a #4 OR 5 BD microstopper at the bottom and is was nice and solid at my waist for the crux. Although I definitely agree about the polish

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R

A #7 (red) BD nut will fit in one of the locks before the crux. It will hold yank in in a perfect downward pull, but I doubt it would hold a fall. Needless to say I didn't test that theory. Probably a waste of time, just get the business done :)