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There is the open book.
This climb is a great moderate for beginners (top-rope) who want to challenge themselves and competent leaders who want to scare themselves with the runout near the bottom and towards the top.
Start off the ground at a small corner and a polished high foot, smear your feet up the polish with a pinch on the left arete of the corner and your right hand desperately searching for a good hold, get into a standing position and make your way up to the very small gear placement about 15 ft off the ground then make your way up easier ground and eventually a slab to the top.
Obvious shallow, right-facing corner on right/center of cliff.
Small at the bottom and spaced at the top.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 14, 2007
I find the first 15-20 feet to be the scary part when leading it due to the fact that you don't get any pro till you are past the crux (which feels harder every year due to the polishing of the "foot holds")....
Mar 12, 2008
I placed a #4 OR 5 BD microstopper at the bottom and is was nice and solid at my waist for the crux. Although I definitely agree about the polish
|By Brendan Blanchard|
From: Strafford, NH
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 R
A #7 (red) BD nut will fit in one of the locks before the crux. It will hold yank in in a perfect downward pull, but I doubt it would hold a fall. Needless to say I didn't test that theory. Probably a waste of time, just get the business done :)