Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory
||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1 [details]|
|FA: ||Cameron Burns, Jonathan Butler and Jesse Harvey- August 1, 1998|
|Season: ||Spring and Fall are optimal (north facing)|
|Page Views: ||1,797|
|Submitted By: ||Matt Pickren on Nov 14, 2007|
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
A couple shady characters looking out over Grand J...
This route climbs the northwest face of Oompah Tower. Oompah is about 1/2 of a mile beyond Liberty Cap in Tiara Rado, 200 meters past Jolly Tower.
Pitch 1- climb very loose, unprotectable 5.6 for 20 feet aiming for a fixed pin near a 0.75 crack. Follow the crack to a ledge in a corner. Continue up double 4 inch cracks in a left facing corner until it is possible to reach left to a pin. Traverse left on a pin and a bolt to another crack. This crack leads to a double anchor belay in an uncomfortable alcove. This pitch could be completely free climbed with some work except for the fixed traverse. (120 feet)
Pitch 2- Start by reaching left 2 meters to a pin in a shallow, right-facing corner. Continue up a crack in the corner to a large ledge with loose rocks and two bolts. (30 feet)
Pitch 3- Leave the belay by following a stud ladder (5-6 studs) with nuts on the studs. There are 2 pins mixed in. After the last stud, grovel left into a less than vertical 5.9 offwidth/ tight chimney. Aim for a randomly placed fixed pin, and then climb up to the notch with a huge flat ledge. Aid off one more pin and mantle onto a shoulder which leads to the summit. (90 feet)
Descent- rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Then rappel from here to the ground with double ropes.
Double set of cams from yellow Alien to #5. 1 #5 is easily sufficient. Double #4s are mandatory. Stoppers for the stud ladder as you can use them for protection with nuts screwed down tight by hand. One may want a butterfly hanger or two as the nuts may eventually vanish. 4 quickdraws.
Matt Pickren belayed by Ben Kiessel on the first p...
Oompah Tower as seen from the approach.
Matt peeking around the corner near the top of pit...
BETA PHOTO: We had some issues finding the Oompah Tower this p...
|Comments on Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory
By Ben Kiessel
Nov 15, 2007
PG13? where was the scary stuff?
Also when we were climbing linking pitch 1 and 2 seemed like it would have been easy.
By Peter Blank
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Oct 9, 2012
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Totally blew past the 1st anchor no problem. I went straight up instead of moving left into the other crack system, you can traverse the ledge up top pretty easy. Also a single 70m gets you to the ground from the 2nd belay but not with much to spare. Cruiser and fun, if this thing wasn't tucked so far back in there, it would see a lot more traffic.