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Pogue's Cave Area
Routes Sorted
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Blessed and Blissed S 
Buzz Lightyear S 
Funk Shui S 
Houkah S 
Jeremy Fisher S 
Labour of Love S 
Merlins Mantra S 
Never Never Land S 
Now and Zen S 
Ooey Gooey S 
Party Pogues S 
Pogue's Arete S 
POGy WOG S 
Prima Donna S 
Tale of Jemima Puddleduck, The S 
Tweedle Dee S 
Tweedle Dum S 
Unknown S 

Ooey Gooey 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Miguel Grijalva, Chris Grijalva
Page Views: 1,382
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Matt Price going for the RP on Ooey Gooey (11a).

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Enjoyable and fairly sustained route (after you get through the bottom, anyhow). First clip is perhaps a bit higher than you might want it but a stick clip is always an option. Work yourself into the giant hueco and then reach up for a jug and pull an interesting move over a bulge.

After working through the bulge, take all the rest you need and head right and straight up through the business. Sustained and steep through the next three bolts. Crux comes after the third bolt.

Route starts left of the funky water trough that is Merlins Mantra.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Ooey Gooey Slideshow Add Photo
Matt Price making the third clip of Ooey Gooey.
Matt Price making the third clip of Ooey Gooey.
Dave SHearer warming-up on Ooey Gooey at the Encha...
Dave SHearer warming-up on Ooey Gooey at the Encha...
Guess the RP will have to wait until another day! ...
Guess the RP will have to wait until another day! ...
Guess I'll have to wait until another day for the ...
Guess I'll have to wait until another day for the ...
Jason's flash attempt of Ooey Gooey.
Jason's flash attempt of Ooey Gooey.
Ooey Gooey action. April 2011.
Ooey Gooey action. April 2011.

Comments on Ooey Gooey Add Comment
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By Allison Fritz
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
Oct 21, 2007

First bolt is high off the ground but the climbing is not as bad as it looks. Nice sustain climbing after the second bolt. Nice holds on either side to clip the anchors.
By magoo
From: Duke City
Aug 16, 2011

I have no idea who Charles Bitting is but he had nothing to do with the FA of this route. My brother Chris and I put this route up around the same time we did Jemima and Jeremy Fischer. It probably only matters to me but thought I would mention it.

Miguel