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Agawa Canyon 
Bellevue Tower 
Bon Echo 
Calabogie 
Golden Horseshoe 
Gull Lake Cliffs 
Kama Bay, L. Superior (Mixed) 
Kama Bay, Lake Superior (Ice) 
Lake of Bays, Ontario, Canada 
Mile 38 
Montreal River Harbour / Batchawana Bay 
Old Baldy  
Orient Bay (Ice) 
Orient Bay (Mixed) 
Red Rock Ridge 
Robertson Ridge 
Sawpit Bay 
Sleeping Giant 
Thunder Bay (Ice) 
Thunder Bay, Ontario 
White Bluff 

Ontario 


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Lat, Long: 44.0244, -80.6836 Map
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Administrators: Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 19, 2007

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Entering the crux of Nimbus (5.10b) at Lion's Head...

Description 

It would appear at first glance that Ontario lost in the glaciation lottery. Somehow nearby Quebec and New York State were spared total bulldozing, but Ontario really got it in the last however number of ice ages.

Despite that, there is some fine climbing to be had in Ontario, even some great climbing. The local communities are large and strong.

In southern Ontario, the limestone and dolostone of the 700km long Niagara Escarpment, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, provides fifty or more crags from Niagara Falls up to Tobermory on the Bruce Pennisula. Recent decades have added a number of high quality sport crags to the trad areas established in the sixties. Lion's Head is a true gem of an area; pictures from there look like Thailand.

Further north and also to the east, the granite and quartzite of the Canadian Shield formation provide some excellent trad cragging and multi-pitch routes.

The relatively long winters have pushed people to hunt out every ice smear around, and if you're up to winter camping and lots of tromping across frozen lakes and in the bush, there's solid ice climbing to be had.


Getting There 

The southern parts of the Niagara Escarpment are easily accessible from Toronto, Buffalo or Detroit. For most other areas you're looking at a lot of driving.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ontario:
Reflection Wall   WI5     Ice, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Getting Oriented   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Kama Bay, Lake Superior (Ic...
Icebreakers   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 150 feet   Kama Bay, Lake Superior (Ic...
Whimpsicle   WI4+     Ice, 150 feet   Kama Bay, Lake Superior (Ic...
Kama Bay Cakewalk   WI6-     Ice, 150 feet   Kama Bay, Lake Superior (Ic...
Andromeda Weeps   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Evil Des Seins   WI4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Mellow Yellow   WI3+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Ranxerox Tangent   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Sycho Icycho   WI2+     Ice, 1 pitch, 190 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Cascade Falls   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 130 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Obsession   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 180 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Tempest   WI2+     Ice, 1 pitch, 200 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
10% Real   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 150 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Parallax   WI5     Ice, 120 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Tears of Joy   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Jaws   V8+     Boulder, 30 feet   Sawpit Bay
Reflection Lake Cabin   3rd V-easy WI1 M1 C0 Easy Snow PG13     TR, Aid, Boulder, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 1 pitch, 900 feet   Orient Bay (Ice)
Discovery   5.7     Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II   Thunder Bay, Ontario
The Monument   5.12+     Trad, 70 feet   White Bluff : Past the Hippie Wall
Browse More Classics in Ontario

Featured Route For Ontario
This monster lives on a bluff overlooking the Georgian Bay, with Lions Head in the distance. Easy but chossy climbing leads to the hand/fist crack that pinches down to fingers just before the lip. Unfortunately it seeps most of the season generally drying out around August.

The Monument 5.12+  International : Canada : ... : Past the Hippie Wall
The route EVERYONE wants to do, but it rarely gets done. This nearly horizontal 30 foot roof is massive and split by a fist/hand crack that pinches to fingers just before the lip.Climb the chossy looking face until it is possible to start using the crack. The rock is more solid than it looks, but use caution.Climb the easy, slightly overhanging crack up to the roof then take a deep breath before leaning back and seeing how far away the lip looks. After choking back down the vomit, fight the pump...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Ontario Slideshow Add Photo
Thomas seconding Nimbus.

Thomas seconding Nimbus.

Cat's Tail (5.9), a long, sustained and high quality line at Mt. Nemo near Milton.

Cat's Tail (5.9), a long, sustained and high quali...

Starting up "I Wonder Where the Lions Are" (5.12a) at Lions Head on the Bruce Peninsula.  This is a stellar limestone sport climb with multiple cruxes and great technical moves.

Starting up "I Wonder Where the Lions Are" (5.12a)...

Entering the crux of "I Wonder Where the Lions Are" at Lion's Head.

Entering the crux of "I Wonder Where the Lions Are...

non climbing - throwing rocks into Lake Superior during a backpacking trip to Lake Superior Provincial Park.

non climbing - throwing rocks into Lake Superior d...

Me on Caramel Coatings (Kushog Lake, ON, Canada)

Me on Caramel Coatings (Kushog Lake, ON, Canada)

Mother of Pearl

Mother of Pearl

Agawa Canyon

Agawa Canyon


Comments on Ontario Add Comment
Show which comments
By jaysquared
From: Madison, WI
Aug 17, 2008

Last week I drove from Toronto to Sudbury and was amazed by the amount of rock up there. Does anyone know about established climbing up there? I didn't see many obviously climbable faces from the road, but I'm assuming there's got to be something.

Anyone familiar with the area?

By nodin
From: Duluth, MN
Oct 15, 2008

Check www.acctbay.ca for more info on the Thunder Bay area...

By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jan 20, 2009

jaysquared, there are some well established climbs in Killarney Provincial Park. Some are documented in David Smart's book Ontario's Finest Rock Climbs. Beyond that, I'm sure there are tons of other areas, although the information is probably sparse.