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To find this route, hike into the Sand Gulch canyon and up towards the Free Form Wall. Approximately 250 feet right (south) of the Free Form Wall proper are two bolted routes with steep and very interesting starts. The left one is "Swinging Chimps" and the right one is Onomatopoeia.
The route punches through the steep lower section on good holds (great chance to try out the muscles that Morrison has given you). after you clear the lip a short section of technical face will lead you to the anchors.
One note of caution: you don't want to fall into the tree directly behind the route. Also, be careful lowering your partner (i.e. don't penalty slack him into the tree).
Have a good one.
4 bolts and anchors.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 6, 2004
Be cautious using the deep starting pocket...don't yard on it too hard as it flexes a bit. Clip the second bolt off of the right hand before reaching across to a good pocket...that should keep you from shish-ka-bobbing on the tree. Good route that feels more like a boulder problem, until you complete the leftward rising traverse. Rock quality improves as you move higher with fun moves to the top. -JM
|By richard magill|
Mar 23, 2004
Really fun moves.This would warrant an extra star if only:
1) That tree would go away. 2) The route wasn't so close to the 11 on the left. 3) The route wasn't so short.
Anyway, stick directly to the line of bolts if you want to do the 12a sequence. You can easily veer left onto the 11 if you don't force yourself to stay right.
From: Denver, CO
May 31, 2010
As Richard noted, stay 10 inches right of the bolt line is 5.12a, but just 10 inches left puts you right on the 5.11 making this a very contrived route.