|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Will Chen, Dave Kennedy, Mark Robinson|
|Submitted By:||Brian Quiter on Mar 8, 2005|
|Comments on Only the Young Die Brave||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Mar 21, 2007
|Great climb, solid arete technique required...|
By Vlad S
Feb 8, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
|I replaced one of the 5/16" buttonhead protection bolts on the route. It turned out to be very bomber (in spite of being 26-27 years old), so I would assume the remaining three 5/16" bolts don't need to be replaced for at least another decade.|
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 11, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Those 5/16 buttonheads can be quite deceivingly bomber. I'll usually give them some light (funking) with an old sling and hammer. If they don't budge at all, they're probably good to go. If the bolt twists or pulls out a bit,(not the hanger spinning), then it probably needs to be replaced. What usually happens with those bolts is they crack in half near the center of the split shank and appear to be solid until you give them a good tug with a funkness and hammer. Then their strength becomes apparent.
I inspected those bolts a few years ago when I was going around replacing all the old bolts at Sugarloaf. Most of the bad bolts at Sugarloaf have been replaced. There are still a few but they are on routes that never see traffic. I'll get to those eventually. If there is one you know about and want replaced, let me know and I'll put it on the list. Or I can give you the bolt if you are able and willing to do it yourself.