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5.8 Crag
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5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 
Arm and Hammer S 
Asbury Park S 
Blue Spotted Tail TR 
Blueballs at Christmas T 
Bolt And Run S 
Central Park TR 
Chimney of Doom T 
Granny's Route S 
License to Ill T 
Milksnake T 
Milktoast S 
Moe Pup Sensation S 
Only a Crow S 
Pump Up the Volume S 
Raven S 
Romancing The Snake T 
Romancing the Stone S 
Sky Pilot S 
Snake Skin Slab S 
Terrace, The S 

Only a Crow 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg 9/00
Page Views: 1,039
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Dan on the Crux

Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>


A one move wonder on the far right end of the crag up the hill from Arm and Hammer (5.11b).

Start up easier rock to gain a stance, a few moves reach the crux (mostly crimps) to more moderate climbing. A few more tricky moves but for the most part the lower crux is the one to beat.

Not the best route of the grade, but on a busy day it is worth doing.


The far right hand (up the hill) line at 5.8.


6 bolts to an anchor.

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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 9, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This thing shuts me down everytime, I must be missing something... Haha
By Alex Lin
Apr 1, 2013

Am I missing beta or is the climb now missing a hold? This crux felt way harder than Gulliver's at Pulse which is rated 11a...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

he first few time I got on it, it felt impossible to me too! Once you figure out the beta it feels right in the .10b/c range. That being said I have not climbed it this year so something could have broken on it this winter.
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 29, 2013

tricky at the grade for sure!
By karl vochatzer
From: Austin, TX
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Seemed like a low 5.10 to me especially when compared to [sandbagged to me] Romancing The Stone (5.10c). Send both and feel the difference yourself.

The crux is not that difficult to figure out. Step back on the deck and have a look to find the two right hand clipping holds at both bolts, then sort out the left hand move(s) (sidepulls mostly) and the supporting foot work (high left foot on giant crip) to get from clipping hold to clipping hold (bolts 3 and 4 I believe it was). Enjoyed it regardless of the rating.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Sep 20, 2015

Couldn't do this one, —totally shut down,— UNTIL I discovered the "secret move." (Well, my son showed me.) Once you know the tricky beta, the climb becomes another 5.10.

One other thing, the bolt protecting the crux is pretty low. If you go for the semi-bucket with your right hand and fall (as I did), you can hit the slab below, so make sure that your belayer is alert to this.

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