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Iron Curtain Wall
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Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall 
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Motley Cruise 
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One With the Rock 
Out of Touch 
Perestroika 
Pick Pocket 
Unknown West of One with the Rock 
Up In a Flash 

One With the Rock 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 1,093
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 3, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: One With The Rock

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Description 

This is the westmost line on the cliff. It almost deserves 4 stars, and I might change my mind yet. It is a very good route. It start with an easy first bolt (probably the easiest 1st bolt on the wall). Then it gets hard, forcing you to smear and edge very tenuous holds. Hands aren't much help but they are key. Maybe that didn't make sense. A key hand-hold is there to move through the crux; however, the hands don't mark your success through most of this lower section, but good footwork does. After the 3rd bolt, the climbing eases up and hands are good again. The Ruckman's book shows a 5.10a mini-crux at the last bolt, but I never even noticed it. In fact, my belayer mentioned that it seemed like I was on a 5.8 by my speed on the upper section.


Protection 

7 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. It shares anchors with Out of Touch if you want to top-rope.



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By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Jul 11, 2005

Do yourself a favor and rappel off of these anchors, a 60 m rope will work

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

What a fun yet touchy route. This one will test your slabbin skills. The key here is to keep your balance and cool. Have a good belayer on this, because the falls can be awkward through the crux. The upper half is fun with .10ish moves before the top.

By Tim Golden
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 25, 2013

The ratings on the wall don't make sense to me. I thought this one felt about the same as Iron Curtain (10a) on the same wall and Perestroika (10.c) felt easier than both of these. Maybe I was just missing or finding key holds on each climb? Almost all the routes on the right side of the wall feel about the same. Tricky, thin, balancy slab and manteling at the bottom with easier moves above. So don't let the 11c rating scare you. If you climbed Iron Curtain, hop on this one for sure.