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L to R R to L Alpha
Per Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Colorado, "clip the first few bolts of Mythical Kings and Iguanas before striking out right and climbing a slab and an overlap." Climb straight up easy ground directly left of gully past 2 bolts. Then angle right to steeper slab and a bolt before an overlap. Pull through overlap (crux) to another bolt and then through a headwall with another bolt above. Continue up easier slab terrain to anchors. The spacing of upper bolts is a bit spicy.
Route starts about 10 -15 feet left of gully leading to South Face just after reaching base of Southeast face on access trail (which is fairly overgrown). The route is the 5th from left on the Southeast face of the dome.
6 bolts. 2 bolt anchor with no rings or chains. As of 9-12-10, anchors 25 left of these have 1 screw shut link on each bolt. They are somewhat rusted but seemed sound.