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Climbs up left of the water streak.
This route starts right of, and crosses over, Token of My Extreme. The trickiest part runs just left of an obvious water stain. There is a height dependent crux in this nearly vertical zone that favors taller climbers. Climbing remains tricky up to a large pocket and bulge, then become less vertical with easier holds to the anchors.
Rightmost route on Zappa Dome
Eight bolts. One hanger and one chain for anchors.
Feb 15, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sustained 5.8 if you can reach the height-dependent move at the crux. If not, I think it pushes the grade up a notch.
By Tony Brengosz
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seems a bit contrived to start this route to the right of Token. Am I missing something?